Phil Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 I want to remove my windscreen to replace it with a black one, the trouble is the two allen key headed bolts on both sides just turn round and round? Any ideas? I have covers each end of the dash which need removing to get to the back of the bolts so the question is, how do I remove them? If I wanted to take the screen on and off a lot what is the best type of fixing to use, wing nuts? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Caterham do a removable aeroscreen scuttle clamp plate which has captive nuts on the inside Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Phil The 'knee trim' panels should be held in with 5-6 self tappers, that also locate the front of the inner side skin. They may be rivetted in place - You'll need to drill these out unless you can get a spanner / socket onto the nut behind them. Guy See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Edited by - 7heavensoon on 7 Feb 2007 20:04:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidvoas73 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Before converting to the captive nut unit, I used to be able to bend the top of the trims out and down enough to get a socket or spanner on the nut.... a bit fiddly but possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Thanks I take it then that this is a nut and bolt set up rather than a rivet nut thang, so a socket on the back will be the answer? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted February 7, 2007 Leadership Team Share Posted February 7, 2007 Yes Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 Thanks for that There seems to be a wire at both ends of the new screen, is this a simple positive and negative thing? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ipslore Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Phil, Was the old screen heated? - I have bullet connectors for the (heated) screen which disconnect when fitting "JPE" or aero screen for m/sport use. The fittings should be the same as the loom is there for a heated screen - unless of course the "old" screen wasn't and the wiring is hidden away Might not be explaining myself well but sure someone will correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Phil When you take the old screen out you will find that there are two spade connectors, one at each end that connect to the loom under the dash. The new screen probably has bare wires, one black, one blue (colour doesn't matter). You will either need to attach new spade terminals or cut the old ones off (leave a short bit of wire) and solder them back on - use heatshrink tubing to protect the joint if you do this. Assembly is then the reverse of disassembly. Some tips if you haven't had the screen off before: 1) loosen the three screws on the stanchions - it makes it easier to get them off the car without scratching it. 2) a towel or blanket on the bonnet helps to lay the screen on once it is loose as you will then need to get the wires out of the scuttle. 3) the spade terminals should pull straight through the rubber grommets in the scuttle with gentle persuasion. However if they have been in there a while they are likely to self destruct. Halfords sell replacements. 4) put a sock over the triangular end of the stanchion when reassembling to prevent scratching the bodywork. 5) It is a one person job, but is much easier if you have someone to hold the screen in place while you position the bolts. Alternatively fit captive nuts (about £20 from cc). Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 No, the screen has not been off before and it is heated, the new second hand screen has the two wires mentioned and they are without connectors, thanks for the all the help given and the handy tips. One last question, what size are the nuts under the scuttle please? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 One last question, what size are the nuts under the scuttle please?[wanders off to garage] rattle clunk brrrr! [/wanders off to garage] 13mm socket and M8 self locking nuts with penny washers behind them Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 sjmmarsh Superstar X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 Is it compulsory to go for a drive once the screen is removed to see what it is like? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Would recommend using bullet rather than spade connectors on the screen heater wires, as it makes it much easier to push and pull these wires through the rubber grommets on the scuttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I'm just in the process of fitting an RiF aeroscreen. I've decided to make those M8 Nyloc nuts captive without the £35 spend on the Caterham bit. I've put a penny washer on an M8 bolt and tightened a nut up against it, folded the penny washer up against a pair of opposing flats so that it makes a kind of "cowboy hat" shape. Tonight, I'm planning to Araldite this together with a larger penny washer to the side skin. It doesn't have to resist much torque, I would hope. If it don't work I'll have to drag the welder out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 when I did this I had the knee panels rivetted in. I drilled out the rivets, then secured the main (underneath) trim panel back in place with new rivets, but using 2 rivnuts, 1 at the front hole and 1 at the back. The knee panel needs a bit of trimming, but now it just bolts in place into the rivnuts, on top of the footwell knee panel. Martin Aero'd Roadsports B with a garage slowly filling up with upgrade parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Martin Bit of lateral thinking there This bugs in the teeth style seems to be taking off. Bit like clams I suppose. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 Ok, started this evening, took out the two lower screws on the stantions holding the windscreen and slackened the top one either side, using some sponge across the bonnet I lowered the screen onto it, found the wire under the dash with bullet connector, disconnected both sides and removed screen, simple. Under the dash I found the four rivets holding in the knee protector panels and proceeded to drill them out, a little gentle persuasion was needed combined with a wiggle, not me but the panel. A 13mm socket on the inside as suggested and a 5 mm allen key on the outside, removed the lock nuts and the washers then the stantions, job done, now to clean and prepare for the black screen. Question is why have I found four lots of two holes across the scuttle evenly spaced as well as the hole at both ends for the heated screen wire? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now