Andrew Willoughby Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 I've just received my DRE shift light from Mike's bulk buy and it looks great. Could any fellow Blatchatters give me some really simple fitting instructions? Any suggestions, particularly with pictures, from anyone who's done this would be most gratefully received. It would be ideal if the unit could be unplugged easily for the tonneau to be fitted. Thanks Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 I connected mine to a battery just to make sure it works (it does ), but not sure where to mount it in the car yet... See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Has anyone fitted theirs yet? Hopefully will get a chance on Friday See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randybugger Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 put mine in yesterday, works brill but driving everywhere lighting all the lights so might loose my licencesoon. easy to fit I wired mine into the brake +feed (comes on with ignition) -on coil and earthed through a bolt velcro'ed just to left of steering wheel toneau still fits 10 min job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old captain slow Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 What's the percieived wisdom for the set up ie Hi and Lo and flash set point for a K series 1.6 SS? C7 CDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I've been thinking of just taking GND, +12V and signal off the wires that go into the back of the tacho. Aside from putting new spade connectors on (my car seems to have 3 individual spade connectors not part of a block) is there any good reason not to do this? M. Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old captain slow Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 That would be a real easy fix so interested in the views. My tacho goes all over the place when I'm giving the cars beans. Do you think that means there's loads of noise in the tacho signal line and that this would screw the shift light? C7 CDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Martin - I did this for my Shift-i light recently. My tacho connector is a block with 3 spades. I then took each of the shiftlight wires and a short piece of wire and made a Y adaptor - hence each shiftlight wire had a male and a female spade attached. The female spade of each wire went to the back of the tacho, the male went to the tacho connector. I don't like to chop into a car loom if it can be avoided. Also, it makes it far easier to remove the shiftlights if needed. cheers, Darren. Edited by - LazerBrain on 1 Feb 2007 14:44:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I started to fit mine this afternoon. I took the aero screen off after first marking where the hole would be to feed the wire through. No probs so far Fitted the aeroscreen back on and mounted the unit just to the left of centre on the Velcro. Smashing Good position Sat in and admired the unit My neighbour who is a Marshal at Snetterton came over for a chat about the alterations to the track by which time it had clouded over. So I decided to call it a day and went to put the tonneau back on. Bu€€er! I forgot about the tonneau 😳 I need to think about where to reposition the unit in order to overcome this. Not so simple as I run with a ½ tonneau on track which prevents it being sited in the middle as this fouls as well. May be I need to think about making a bracket to fit on the inside of the aero screen to mount it on. Updated to say I made a Z bracket from some aluminium bar about 3cm wide where the bottom leg of the Z is considerably longer than the top. The unit sits on the top whilst the bottom slides under the aeroscreen and is held firm once you tighten the middle two fixing screws. This allows the tonneau to slide under the shift lights whilst having the advantage of raising them by about 2 cm. Thats that bit sorted Has anyone fitted one to an EU3 wasted spark with an Emerald yet? If so which connections did you use? Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Edited by - oldbutnotslow on 2 Feb 2007 23:14:52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Fitted mine this morning 😬 Very easy to do (EU3 1.8): - FIA Switch off - Remove steering wheel and tacho (unplug multiplug) - Locate Green (ignition switched power) wire in multiplug (there was quite a bit of spare wire coiled into the wiring harness) - Cut green, and re crimp with the red shiftlight wire - Locate WB wire (white with black tracer) in multiplug (pin 7). Again, there was extra cable tied back into the harness. - Cut WB wire, and re-crimp with the green shiftlight wire - this is the tacho input - Crimp on a spade connector to blue shiftlight wire (ground). - Loosen nut in wiper mechanism directly above tacho hole in the dash and re-tighten with spade terminal in place - Replace Tacho and steering wheel - FIA switch on At the moment, I've just Blu-Taked it onto the scuttle, so need to mount it properly and tidy up the wiring. Set the shiftlight to 4CY (even thought EU3 is wasted spark, the tacho signal is 'correct' IYSWIM) Works really well Guy See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Edited by - 7heavensoon on 3 Feb 2007 11:47:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Now struggling!! I can sort the power feed & earth but where do I take the rev feed from on a stack? Is there a feed on the ECU that's easier? What colour and is it on the big connector or the small one? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Cheers Guy Maybe I'll do mine later (or tomorrow). What rev settings are you using for 'start lighting up' and 'big red on'? Any idea how Caterham set them as standard? Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old captain slow Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Re the tonneau problem. I've just been sitting in the car admiring the view from the drivers seat inside the trailer (really sad I know). Seems to me the shift light's optimum position is just to the left of the steering wheel on top of the scuttle. In that position the wire from the shift light lies naturally in the nick between the borrom of the windscreen frame and the top of the scuttle. I'm inclined to run the wire along the bottom of the screen then trough the skin where it curves down on the drivers side. This would mean when I fit the tonneau I can unclip the shift light and drape it inside the car out of sight and the tonneau goes on just fine IYSWIM. What do you think? Need a small grommet for the hole - Maplins I guess. The easiest way to wire it is going to be into the back of the tacho, but mine goes haywire when I'm on track giving it beans. It's nice and steady at any revs on the road once it's settled down. Do you think TADTS or do I need to sort the tacho feed as well? C7 CDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 OK - sorted the wiring after squinting at the loom diagram (must get some reading glasses). It works fab too as a very chilly blat just proved. Now just worried about the amount of steam venting from the catch tanks when I got home 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 David - that's pretty much how I mounted my Shift-i lights. cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Grubbster I set 'Hi' at 6500, 'Lo' at 5500 and 'Flsh' at 6700 I think. (The MEMS rev limiter is at 6750 IIRC) It's a neat little bit of kit Guy See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 For those with an Emerald the fitting instructions Per Karl are: - The tacho output of the Emerald ECU can be used to drive that sequential shift-light unit. The tacho signal frequency matches that normal for a coil negative connection on a conventional coil + distributor. Having said that the SLD5 instructions do mention that you can connect to a coil negative with a wasted spark ignition system and just half the number of cylinders setting to correct the rpm reading. If the shift-light is mounted close to the tacho then join the red wire with the tacho +12v supply, the black wire with the tacho earth and the green wire with the tacho input signal. Another option, if it's easier to get to the ECU wiring, is to join the red wire with the ignition controlled +12v at ECU pin 11, join the black wire with the ECU earth at pin 29 and join the green wire with the tacho output at ECU pin 12. I will probably sort mine after what look like being a verrrrry chilly 8.15am start to Sundays golf Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisddl Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Fitted mine today having followed LazerBrain's 'Y' type wiring up and 7heavensoon's colour coding. All worked a treat. Only now need to find some way of feeding the wire from the back of the unit through the scuttle. The wire fits nicely into the gap under the screen support, but how is the best way of getting it through the scuttle. Would it be possible to feed it through the hole for the heated screen wire without removing the screen ? Chrisdl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Well for me it was a no brainer. Drill the bu__er! Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 Chris - I don't know the cable diameter used for your shiftlight, but I couldn't get mine through the heated screen hole. It's possible to remove the windscreen and carefully lay it on a towel on the bonnet without removing the wiring. I then drilled a new hole (which I checked would be covered by the stanchion) for the shiftlight cable. Grant - any chance of some pics of your Z mount? cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 4, 2007 Share Posted February 4, 2007 see here for pictures Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 I'll have to lower my limits for the shift lights I think - went for a quick blat yesterday to deliver a racing jack, three wrenches and a set of spanners (a tight squeeze!) to Airhog, and it is too tempting to set the lights off - wheelspin everywhere Hopefully I washed all the salt off.... Guy See some pictures of the build here. 11000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 thanks Grant. How bad is the vibration? I'm thinking of mounting my bike speedo in a similar way - do you reckon it will vibrate too much to read? cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 5, 2007 Share Posted February 5, 2007 Sorry but I dont know about vibration as I have yet to run it. My car only goes out 12 to 15 times a year as its a track only beastie! However If its mounted on velcro then there is going to be a degree of in built vibration damping. My Sigma is attached to the roll cage upright and does not vibrate at all. Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport www.obns.co.uk 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airhog Posted February 6, 2007 Share Posted February 6, 2007 Right then..... 2000 1.6K SS, 6 pin multiplug into back of tacho (different to Guys and I think all EU3 cars).....anyone know the colour codes? Or indeed is there anywhere better to splice the wiring into as there is very little room and not much give in the loom to get access. In any case would rarther not use scothlok thingys if I can avoid it. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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