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Tyre wear on airfields + Ride Height


Richard Anderson

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I'm not likely to wear out a brand new set of 'S' compound A032's on a single trackday at an airfield am I? ..as long as I take it easy! :-)

 

Also, how do you adjust the ride-height on a 7 with Bilstein adjustable dampers? ...is it an easy job that I should attempt myself (being mechanically ignorant), or should I leave it to the experts?

 

 

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If you are talking road Bilsteins they were offered with additional circlip groves machined into the body that allowed the ride height to be adjusted by the tedious method of moving circlips and thus the spring seat and if further fine adjustment was nececcary shimming up with alloy shims. Very tedious as you need to remove the damper from the car to do it easily. I believe Caterham now offer a kit to convert these to the threaded seat type, no idea of the price though. Remember before you adjust the ride height you should slacken off the bolts that pass through the rubber bushes on the front wishbones (4 no. each side) and radius arms and A frame rear (7 no. total) and then re-torque after to ensure the correct suspension pre load. It is not difficult to do but a profesional with corner weighting kit, alignment gauges etc. could set the car up far more accurately than you can do at home. Being a tight northerner I have always done mine with spirit levels, string, tapes and other similar hi-tech equipment.

 

Know bugger all about A032's.

 

Paul

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Rob,

 

I've seen you're driving from your video's, I can see how you get through the tyres! ;-)

 

The airfield is Bentwaters and it is my first trackday (in my own car) but, I assume that if I take it easy and just practice a fast-road style driving that wear shouldn't be that bad? I know this is not exactly the point of trackdays but, I can't afford to go through too many tyres at the mo. At the moment, I'm just more interested in finding out where the limits are so that I can drive with more confidence on the road.

 

Paul,

 

My dampers seem to have a screw thread on them....does this mean they are easy to adjust?

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The screw thread makes the job a doddle, normally there are 2 locking rings and the best tool for the job is known as a C spanner, other than that a tap with a blunt chisel will start them moving. Best to move all 4 corners of the car by an identical ammount if the car is set up OK at present but remember any movement on the front dampers is approx doubled at the chassis as the dampers are inclined, the rears are vertical thus whatever the seat is moved the chassis is moved. Have fun but take plenty of reference measurements before you start so you can change back if necessary.

 

Paul

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