julians Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Just noticed I have a fuel leak (injection type tank), after a quick inspection it would appear to be coming out from under one of the straps that the tank sits on, I've had a scan through the archives and it would appear this is a common problem caused by having no rubber on the tank seating area. I've not got the tank out yet, but expect this is what caused it. Whats the best way to patch up a leaking tank, or is it just better to buy a new one (how much is a new one?) someone mentioned welding it in another thread, is there an easier/quicker way of sorting it. Some sort of liquid metal perhaps. And whilst I'm at it, whats the best way of emptying the tank before removing it. Thanks Julian Edited by - julians on 18 Mar 2002 22:02:54 Edited by - julians on 18 Mar 2002 22:19:32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Welding a petrol tank doesn't seem like a good idea to me blush.gif I had a new tank back in November 2000. I think the cost was £140 (+VAT?) Chris Alston Se7ening - it's all miles and smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif 1800 Supersprint - Loud and Proud teeth.gif ...well it only sounds fast officer blush.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Julian, To empty the tank you can buy a cheap syphon from a most motor accesory shops. You can weld up the tank, but it must be degassed first. I'm not sure where you are, but i n=know a few people in Surrey who do this sort of thing. Email me if you want details. Arnie Fat Arn This is a Testid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Smith Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 The best thing to do is fit a new tank. I was £110 +Vat a few weeks back (not injection tank) The most difficult bit of the job was getting the boot floor out. Once you have the tank out its a brilliant oportunity to get all the crud off the chassis, give it a rub down paint and waxoyl. Having done this pay a lot of attention to getting pleny of rubber chassis tape between the straps/chassis and the tank. Initially I thought my tank could be repaired but when I gave some thought to how the leaks come about (electrolytic corrosion) and examined the tank (scores of pin holes and soft powdery ally) I realised there was no way I would ever be confident of any repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coose Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 I can only assume from the last post that your tank is ally... If so, you could easily repair it if you have a MIG welder... Take the empty tank out (after draining as previously mentioned), leave the tank kicking around it the garage for a week or so with the cap off to allow venting, chop out the bits where the straps are in contact with the tank (i.e. where the elecrolysis occurs between the alumininium tank and the steel straps) and weld in some new sections. As far as cost goes, the rest of your tank is probaly in almost perfect condition, a few off-cuts of ally sheet from your local engineering shop will cost pence and a reel of ally MIG wire and a cylinder of Argon from Halfords will cost around £20, and will also give you much left over to make other interesting objects! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff C Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 A freind of mine recently welded plates over the corrosion in my fuel tank. The tank itself is easy enough to remove and I just poured the excess fuel into a container once it was out. A good swilling with fairy liquid got rid of all fumes before I sent it away. The most frustrating job for me was sealing the fuel pump back on to the tank. This took about 3 attempts and a tube of flexible sealant. Edited by - Geoff C on 18 Mar 2002 23:16:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 18, 2002 Share Posted March 18, 2002 Coose Said.... "Take the empty tank out (after draining as previously mentioned), leave the tank kicking around it the garage for a week or so with the cap off to allow venting, chop out the bits where the straps are in contact with the tank (i.e. where the elecrolysis occurs between the alumininium tank and the steel straps) and weld in some new sections." THE ABOVE IS VERY BAD ADVICE. YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST DEGASS A FUEL TANK BEFORE WELDING IT. IF YOU LEAVE IT 1 WEEK OR 1 MONTH IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. IT WILL STILL EXPLODE. You can degas by putting the tank filler over an exhaust pipe. This blows all the explosive fuel vapour out after a couple of minutes, and you should then wast the tank out with a strong detergent and water mix and degass again. Anything less is suicide. Fat Arn This is a Testid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Edited by - Fat Arnie on 18 Mar 2002 23:56:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberts Wallet Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 This recently happened to me. Nice big pool of petrol in the garage. I took it to one welding place who said he could do it for 105+vat. eek. I then took it to another local welder who did it for £25 inc. I was quoted £140 +vat for a new tank so the above made sense to me. The tank is now as good as new. He also welded up the hole that I drilled to empty the tank too. blush.gif Cheers Gareth Who Dares Twins bum.gif bum.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Absolutely Arn! May I add a rider, in that the professionals will STEAM the tank to clear the vapour; that is if you can get someone to do it in the first place. Secondly, I think Coose you mean TIG weld. Buy a new tank Julian and I guess the lesson is to insulate it well from the straps. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxy Smith Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 To add to what I said above. I looked at having the tank repaired. Both quotations were near to or in excess of what I paid for the new tank. Both companies advised replacement of tank over repair not just on cost grounds but down to the difficulty of determining what was sound metal and what had to be repaired or replaced. The way I see it I'm 100% confident in a new tank and if I want to,Coose I have a scrap tank to provide ally for any interesting projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 19, 2002 Author Share Posted March 19, 2002 Thanks for the info, looks like I might as well buy a new tank, just to be sure that its not going to fail again in the near future. Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Julian, I would add that corrrectly done there is nothing wrong with welding the tank. The tank on my car is a modified K series tank, and I have had revisions carried out to its design after it has been filled on several occasisions. James Gates in Caterham will charge you about £20 to weld up a couple of small cracks. Fat Arn This is a Testid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Julians You have mail. I'm interested in your old tank as a pattern to make my own larger capacity version. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 19, 2002 Author Share Posted March 19, 2002 Someone at work has suggested patching it up with fibreglass, does anyone know if fibreglass is resistant to petrol or will it eventually get broken down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Forget fibreglass. This is a 70's style repair! Fat Arn This is a Testid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Forget fibreglass. This is a 70's style repair! and therefore far to advanced for a 60's throwback car. Keepers of the legend.......pah.........blush.gifteeth.gif I'll get me coat.......biggrin.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Yeah Blatman............ You get your (Gel) Coat !!!!!!! Plastic Fantastic? Leave it to Lotus to do it properly!!! thumbsup.gif How's BlatBird? Beware incoming............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Blatgirl is getting beter slowly ta. She's having good days/bad days, which is an improvement over bad days/bad days......Today has been a bad day, hence we're about to go for a dipthumbsup.gif You haven't bitten for a while either. Where've you beenquestion.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 Ok, got the tank out the other day, went down to halfords to get some epoxy stuff and found that they sell some specific fuel tank repair putty. Tried it out it appears to work, in that the leak is now no more, but will it hold up when in active service. just for the record, the rubber strips had worn away, and the aluminium had been eaten away just on the weld, forming a tiny crack. The hardest part is getting the boot floor in/out. Time to see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 Morning Julian, just read the thread and was going to suggest the Halfords stuff. Is it the two putty type that you mould together. If so then I used it last year and the repair is still in place. dont forget to renew the rubbing strips on the straps and tank support. I used an old inner tube and that has been ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted March 21, 2002 Author Share Posted March 21, 2002 John, I looked through the archives and found your post about using inner tubes for the rubber strips, so that is what I've done. Hopefully it should hold up. Julian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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