Calling on 'K' series cooling experts Theory

[Peter T]

Right my theory is that the current set up on my R500 without a heater has the top rail that feeds into the thermostat housing.

First is that i now run a remote thermostat that is now a return fom the head into the radiator.

Second the outlet from the thermostat is at conflicting angles to the dry sump outlet and causes the 90 degree to deform from its original size of 16mm internal bore to around half that.

Their already is a small return from the head to the header tank via the roller barrel set up.

The remote thermostas also has a return/bypass to the header tank.

I propose that i shall blank off the pipe that runs from the top rail to the thermostat.

My theory is that it only trickles cooler water to the lower block assembly thus reduces the likely effect of the now upper remote stat from operating.

Why do i need this extra pipework on this type of set up i am not sure, but it seems odd to me in my configuration.

I am trying to achieve the stat to open and remain a better operating temperature in this set up.

Feasable i am sure?

Any possibility of thermal shock to the block/head surely is elimintaed with this set up??

Comments please. *thumbup*

 

 

R500 Mango Madness

[Englishmaninwales]

Peter, I am no 'cooling expert' but:

Their already is a small return from the head to the header tank via the roller barrel set up.

The remote thermostas also has a return/bypass to the header tank.

---

 

Do you know that this WILL provide adequate circulation ( with the coolant rail to old thermostat housing closed off) to prevent localised boiling in the head before the thermostat opens?

 

[Peter T]

Also i ahve a slamoo 3mm hole drilled in the thermosta itself.

So my maths equate to the existing prportion of water able to escape to reduce localised boiling of the head.

Does this make sense??

 

R500 Mango Madness

[Peter T]

Sorry about spellings. 😳 too much beer. 😬

 

R500 Mango Madness

[PAUL MARRIOTT]

Peter

 

have a look here

 

http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/

 

I've a wet sump 1.8 Kseries 190BHP and have fitted the PRRT thermostat, no heater and have taken out the bypass line - the PRRT does that as well. Under all conditions Track, Blatting and touring I now enjoy a stable water and oil temp - 83 driving 90 standstill.

 

PRRT is about £90, the Freelander conversion kit gives most of the stuff you need, the local scrappy or kit car show will give you the rest of the pipes.

 

Paul M

[7 wonders of the world]

Hi Peter,

 

I've a DS 1.8 K circa 200BHP with OE CC heater, plumbed as follows:

 

I will dig out some images and mail them over too.

 

Top hose from water rail to rad fitted with 32mm T (from the Freelander kit) this takes a full size hose down to the inlet of the PRRT stat mounted just above the steering rack, the retun form the rad also connecters to this and the outley goes via the J hose to the Rover stat housing, tihs has the sta outer ring fitted with the was capsule removed.

 

The heater return to the Rover plastic housing is blanked off

 

The heater feeds form the water rail via the CC valve and the return then comes back to the 32mm new hose inbetween the T and the PRRT stat here I inserted a short submarine tube and using an 18mm T plumbed in the heater retund and expansion bottle retun too. (spin the expansion bottle through 180 degrees to accomadate this - with the later type spherical bottle anyway)

 

The normal bled hose from No 1 inlet to expansion bottle is retained.

 

The theory is the the PRRT works in a simialar fashion to a household shower with a HOT feed (from top hose), a COLD feed (return form rad), and an outlet, this outlet is then capable of maintianing the return water to the engine at a near constat temperature reduce the thrmal cycling effect present in the OE set up, the reloaction of the heater return also aids this.

 

A bit wordy

 

Temp as stated before 83 degrees

 

I've had no cooling issues whatsoever, warm up takes around 4 miles , then the fun starts 😬

 

Try these guys for the kit they were way cheaper than anyone else when I got mine

www.land-rover-parts-shop.com

 

hope this helps.

[Peter T]

Thanks, that sounds a good idea, will digest when i get homw later.

Cheers. 😬

 

R500 Mango Madness

[PAUL MARRIOTT]

7 Wonders

 

Basically the same as my set up, only differances are that

 

1 . I've plumbed the expansion bottle onto the 16mm conection on the old Thermostat housing.

 

2. I've taken the heater take off away entirely, as the PRRT works the byepass. I have had a threaded insert brazed into the take off pipe and now use it as a bleed point.

 

3 . I've put a laminova water to oil cooler in the line between PRRT and the engine - very stable oil temp now.

 

The other changes I've made are Radtec rad and upgraded the fan to 11" (it just fits)

 

 

Paul M