Desperate help with immobolisers needed

[tiddy1]

I have put the car back together but can not start the thing. I have confirmed and checked all the immobiliser wires and there is also power to the imobiliser but I can not get the LED to come on

 

all the relays click and the fuel pump hums but the starter does not turn. If I jump a +ve to the starter solenoid then the car runs to a fashion.

 

I have read the threads about resetting the imobliiser but I can not get teh LED to come on am I supposed to?

 

Its a VVC engine with an old immobiliser (which does not set its self) bu twas working fine when I took the car apart.

 

What can I try next, I have tried all the things I can think of, what can a rover dealer do for me? Can they test the immobilisers??

 

Any help would be greatfully recieved

 

Simon

[Peter Carmichael]

The old style Rover immobilisers do not disable the starter circuit. You have a problem with the starter rather than the immobiliser. You say that the engine runs after a fashion - if the immobiliser was set it might run for a second or two but it would then stop and not restart.

 

With correct functionality, the led should come on from the hand plipper. Resynching the plipper and immobiliser involves switching the immobiliser on and off 4 times. The immobiliser will only set with the ignition key off.

[tiddy1]

Peter, when you say switching the immobiliser on and then off, I assume you mean with the plipper. do I have to wait for 30 secs between each plip?

 

Also I have checked the voltage in the starter circuit and when I turn the key I get 12V from the ignition switch going into the ECU plug but it does not come out of th ECU to the starter, Hence I assumed that the ECU starter circuits were being disenabled.

 

I dont seem to be able to get teh led to light under any ciccumstances.

 

There seem to be two wires going to the starter solenoid, one from the alternator (about 20Amp cable )and another one from the loom, the big one is brown and the smaller one brown and red, is this correct??

 

Simon

[Mike Bees]

The ECU doesn't control the starter, it knows nothing of it. If it's a standard Caterham setup then there should be 2 wires to the starter, a heavy-duty red cable capable of taking 300+ amps which will be directly to the battery +ve terminal or the master switch if you have one, and a thinner one which comes out of the loom and energises the solenoid.

 

Does the solenoid click when you turn the key? If not then check for 12v on the thin wire when you turn the key - if it's there then it sounds like the solenoid is duff. If it's not there then either there you've got the wrong wire or there's a fault somewhere else in the wiring (most likely at the ignition switch end). I'm not sure whether there's a relay between the switch and the solenoid. You could try taking 12v direct from the battery to the low power connection on the solenoid (make it's in neutral first...)

 

Mike

[Jason Plato]

I had a similar problem ...... the wires to the starter motor were in the wrong order . .

Take a look at another set up in bristol Simon ??

 

Dave

[tiddy1]

Not that easy I'm afraid, I have the correct wires to the starter and if i take a 12v +ve to the solenoid then the car starts.

 

I have traced all the power through the ignition switch and I get 12V all the wat to the relay box under the ECU however it does not come out of the relay box!

 

there are several wires from teh ECU to teh relay box so I assume that either the relay box is knackered or the ECU is stopping the relay from switching the 12V to the starter

 

Any other ideas?

 

Simon

[tiddy1]

I have just been out playing, and when I say the car runs if I hot wire it across to teh starter solenoid, It runs for a few seconds then conks out. the imobiliser is obviously working and stopping the fuel pump from running

 

 

I'm beginning to wonder if this car will ever run again....

 

Its rather depressing

 

Simon

[tiddy1]

Just thought you may be interested to know that I fixed the imobiliser!! The problem was that even though all the wires were correctly connected to the gray plug the power was not getting to the imobiliser circuit board, the plug pins were a little dodgy.

 

Its amazing just how much trouble a little plug can cause

 

Simon