Ade Ray Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Dear All I could have entitled this post Magical Brake Fluid but you would be mistaken if you thought it was me wanting to talk about a really good brake fluid. Instead I mean magical in that the wholw lot disappeared from the brake lines of my car in a 24 hour period that it was standing still on my drive. I had driven the car on Tuesday with no problem at all and then wrapped her up in a waterproof cover. On Wednesday I decided to car share with my wife so Katie stayed at home. This morning I got into Katie, warmed her up nice and gently and then revesed off my drive......and kept going....and going. There was no brake at all. I took the lid off and there was not even a line of fluid to see under the DANGER sign. I got the car back on to the drive and got out for a mark 1 eyeball. On the tarmac under the inside of my rear left wheel there was an oily mark and when I looked at the wheel and tyre I could see where fluid had dripped down from the brake drum. The pipwork is copper and all looked sound so the questions are: Has the fluid leaked from the drum? Can the drum just give out without warning Can the drum leak so much fluid in a 24 hour period when its just parked on my drive? Is this common? Has the drum had it? Anybody have any ideas as to how much it will cost to fix? Any comments and info will be most welcome Ade sad.gif Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Inside the drum you will find a hydraulically activated "slave" or wheel cylinder. It'll be knackered (unless the brake pipe or bleed nipple is obviously loose). Go buy a new one, fit it, and bleed the brakes. Might be as well to swap the other one out while you're at it. Edited by - Blatman on 14 Mar 2002 15:39:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 What with the red light flicker/popping and banging exhaust et al you have quite a busy weekend ahead. If all pipes are intact then it will be a wheel cylinder that has gone. Yes they can loose all fliud within the time scale you mention although me thinks it will have been weeping for a while and has had enough and now cried uncontrollably, bit like you really. Its not difficult to replace and will require a new cylinder, about 15 quid, possibly new linings as they are likely to be contaminated, another ten quid and some fluid, another fiver or so. You will need to bleed the system completly after replacing all of the bits. A couiple of hours should see it done but before you take the shoes off make sure that you draw onto paper the configuration and make note of where the handbrake levers go. Not all rear brake systems are the same even on like axles. I'm assuming here that is a live axle car, if not then pass. You and your beloved can bleed the brakes together which means you will need a piece of appropriate size tubing to fit over the nipple on the cylinder and a jar to receive the bubbly brake fluid. Start at the furthest point from the cylinder. The drum will be fine, its a live axle, leakage is common but can be spotted with routine maintainance and total failier can be prevented. Shall I fax you some examples of rear drum brake layouts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Ray Posted March 14, 2002 Author Share Posted March 14, 2002 Dear Blatman + John E Thanks for the advice chaps I am prepared to have a go at this but where is the best place to source the parts and how do I identify the that I have the right bits short of carrying the old oily ones into the shop? Also..do I need any particluar tools other than my trusty socket and screwdrive sets? Many thanks for the offer of diagrams, Gordon (The Puffmeister) has an old X-flow manual and he offered it to me after seeing my lack of info in earlier posts. Please keep your eyes posted for the plaintive call for help when I've got a whole bunch of bits and no clue as to what to do with them! Cheers Ade Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Rich_Bernie Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 My advice is to invest in an easi-bleed or similar to make bleeding the brakes a little easier. I found trying to bleed the brakes without one led to cross words with the girlfriend who was enlisted to assist. Other useful goodies for the shopping list: - a spray can of brake cleaner - some coppaslip - a brake adjuster spanner (v samll ring sapnner may work) - strong snipe nosed pliers for the springs that hold the brake shoes - antiseptic & elastoplast have fun Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R2D2 Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 You might just need some brake shoes as well if the fluid has managed to wet the lower shoe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Ray Posted March 14, 2002 Author Share Posted March 14, 2002 Hello Everybody I think the elastoplast and antiseptic is very appropriate. I am assuming that by snipe nosed pliers you mean narrow nose in which case I am Ok. If they are something more specialised then I will have to look around. Gordon has just delivered the build manuals and there are no detailed drawings of the brake drum construction etc. so some plans may be useful after all. Fax NO 01926 311441 (thanks) Am I right in thinking that the live axle is an Ital one or is it likely to be anything different? I will laugh about this later I'm sure! Ade smile.gif Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 When you've got the car in the air, wheels off, and you can't seem to get the drum off, don't forget to release the handbrake.......blush.gifteeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 14, 2002 Share Posted March 14, 2002 Probably an Ital axle. The Ford variety normally have the logo on the diff casing. Will fax the stuff tomorrow, The important thing here is no to rush into disassembly. make plenty of diagrams if need be. dont forget to clean the drums with petrol, brake cleaner or thinners, keep away fromn the paintwork and flames. Most reasonable motor factors will be able to identify the model of brake shoe, lining and wheel cylinder providing you first identify the type of axle the alternative is to ring Caterham with the chassis number etc and if they supplied either the complete car in kit or fully built form then they will have all of the info and part numbers. Have a stiff drink ready in case of trouble. As an afterthought when tightening the brake pipe union into the wheel cylinder make sure that it is NOT cross threaded other wise you will knacker the thread on the cylinder or on the union and have to repace both and the pipe replacement will be a bloody nusance. Edited by - John E on 14 Mar 2002 21:33:15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 Ade, I am in your area, drop me an email and I will help where I can. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John E Posted March 15, 2002 Share Posted March 15, 2002 Fax en route and will include details of jacking and axle stand placings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Ray Posted March 15, 2002 Author Share Posted March 15, 2002 Dear John Received fax all OK Many thanks for all your help Ade teeth.gif Make the world a better place, hug an estate agent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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