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No Spark - Emerald


spankthemonkey

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*confused* Hi all posting this on behalf of a work colleague, building a Sylva so will let him explain!

 

Story so far: 1400K Series, Jenvey DTH TBs, Emerald ECU, Dizzy, No Immobiliser, beige injectors, standard Rover engine loom less IAVC bit.

 

Loaded 1600ss map suppied with emerald, crank sensor in map has been set up for a 36-2 flywheel

which is fitted.

TPS has been set up

LED on ECU is changing to green on cranking

Fuel system is priming

+12v supply to injectors, coil etc as expected.

 

Problem is no spark

 

Checked, double checked, and checked again pin wiring to ECU, this is as emerald intended.

Have tried temporay earth and live feeds to ECU

Have swapped coil, rotor arms, dist cap and leads

 

Still banging my head any ideas?

 

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Hi Spankthemonkey I had this troubble when I first got my Emerald ECU, My son and I spent two weeks trying to sort it, in the end it was thhe wire down to the Fly wheel pick up senser, *confused* do's the light on the end of the ECU box turn from red to green when crank the engine over on the starter if not its not getting a signal so the lead need changing hope this is some help regards Paul
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*confused*Another session in the garage. £40 lighter for a CPS. I am now seeing 250rpm on the onscreen live readings when cranking. The led is going green on cranking.

 

Still no bl**dy spark. Definately 12v to coil. Does any one know the correct test for the switched earth from ECU to coil? I have put a new wire in this (pin25)

 

Any other ideas for no spark, whole of the HT side is new now. Does the Hz setting on ECU configuration need changing? This is still at default value.

 

Cheers Spank ☹️

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Check what voltage you are getting when cranking. The Emerald will not fire the coil or injectors if the battery voltage is too low. We have seen this a couple of times.

 

Are you getting fuel out of the injectors. If no fuel and no spark then definitely check the battery voltage.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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*thumbup* 😬 Hi Everyone

 

All suggestions were pointing to CPS/wiring etc. So having put on new CPS and checking wiring again, I went about counting the missing teeth on the flywheel again, this time I removed the balnking plate instead of trying to look down the sensor hole. Low and behold 4 missing teeth, so my early 1400 engine has a later flywheel. So reset pattern to Rover 2 (36-4) took the plugs out turned over, led red. Set to Rover 3 (36-4) turned over led constant green. Now were talking, connected coil and one plug, spark for the first time. Put in all 4 plugs connected leads, held my breath and turned the key, started first crank, even ticked over.

 

Now have to rebuild my loom etc but very happy, remember the car is in build so this is practically its birth.

 

Big thanks to all who gave suggestions, and all the similar threads, it got me back to basics.

 

To all those that follow, the led must be solid green not green/red.

 

Thanks form Spank and Matt 😬 😬 😬

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Glad it is now sorted, for information..

 

Using the live adjustments screen to diagnose this sort of problem will get you there much faster.

 

If the RPM reading when cranking dances up and down alternating between 200-300 and 0 then it indicates that the crank tooth pattern is wrong. Intermittent readings usually indicate this, the other possible cause is batterly low/too slow cranking.

 

the live adjustments screen gives all sorts of useful feedback and is easier than trying to spot an LED, especially, if like me, you are colour-blind..

 

oily

 

Edited by - oilyhands on 1 Dec 2006 22:31:44

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