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Problems with seq. 6speed Quaife box


Marius

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Yesterday we fitted a 6speed sequential Quaife box to a brandnew RHD race-chassis and found that you´re not able to shift down without hammering your knuckles against the dashboard. (see photos at www.mog-racing.de, topic "Aktuell")

 

I remember once reading about this somewhere here at TechTalk and I know there are quite a few of these boxes out there. How did you solve this problem ? Different shift-stick? Changing the way to shift ? Any ideas ? The owner doesn´t want to end up with bleeding fingers after a 25min. race.

 

Thanks,

Marius

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MArius,

 

I have the same issue on my car as I have had to raise the tail of the gearbox to get it to clear a strengthening tube which runs under an just behing the bellhousing.

 

Gear knob just hits the dash.

 

I see two options:

 

Increase the bend in the lever.

Shorthen the lever.

 

 

My car won't be running until tomorrow as I am waiting for some bolts to fit my vented disc calipers to the didion ears. But if they arrive in the post, I need run a supply voltage to the digital gear indicator, bolt on the calipers and I'm on the road.

 

Will report back after road test.

 

Have MOG gone for any fancy full throttle shift device? If so which one and how well does it work??

 

 

 

Fat Arn

The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red>

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green>

 

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Its designed for "Seven type cars". i.e Robin Hoods, Westfileds, Tigers and all those other cars which according to thier owners are also direct descendents of the Lotus Seven.tongue.giftongue.gif

 

This lever will not fit the Caterham chassis when the gearbox uses the rear mounting position (K and VX) as it interferes with the tunnel structure (particularly on the pre-tunnel-handbrake chassis)

 

 

Bending/shortening the lever is the only option.

 

I'd image my problem will be more severe as the rear gearbox mount had had to be raised 20mm to get the box to fit around the tunnel in my car. The MOG car should have this problem to a lesser extent.

 

 

 

Fat Arn

The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red>

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green>

 

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Same problem here, i just cut the lever right down and had a new aluminium gearknob machined up. The quaiffe knob is quite tall on it's own, apart from the fact it does look very good.

 

This has also reduced the lever travel which was a concern but it works very well, and allowed me to mount the gear indicator in front of the lever on the transmission tunnel.

 

If anyboby wants a picture, mail me and I will send it.

 

Mike.

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Mike, Dave, Arnie, thanks for your help, we´ll give this a try. Shortening the lever seems the best way for me but a quick call to Quaife might bring light into that new rear-mounted lever thing.

 

Arnie, our box hadn´t to be raised but some chassis modifications had to be done, too. (see website).

 

I´ll keep you updated about the forthcoming.

 

Marius

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Marius,

 

I have just tried the box and the lever was interferring with the dash.

 

The lever is a case hardened EN36 casting. Heating it to bend it will cause it to snap. I know this as mine is currently a two piece item.

 

The options are:

 

To shorten by 25mm inch you can grind 25mm off the top end of the lever and machine the knob into a more cylindrical shape. This means ou continue to use the reverse bowden cable setup and its fixing through the lever as normal.

 

To shorten any more means you have to cut the lever witha grinder and weld a new top section on made from normal mild steel which you can then drill the 4mm hole for the cable support in. You can then weld the new top section to the original bottom piece at an angle and all will be fine.

 

The case hardening is designed to ensure the needle rollers in the lever, and the sector ball on the end to not wear/snap. The material performs no useful function on the top end of the lever.

 

I have jsut had all these mods carried out for £20 by a local engineering firm. It'll be ready in time for tomorrow nights Surrey meeting.

 

Fat Arn

The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red>

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green>

 

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I shortened mine lst year by angle grinding a bit off the top, shortening the nylon knobby bit and also moving the reverse detent collar down the stick. The latter was hard as re drilling the hole for the roll pin was difficult as it was so hard. Worked OK in the end though.
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Not at all Arn'. But it would've been highly amusing.

 

Personally I find a larger than average knob with good protrusion and as much firmness as you can get is the best solution. If it has a lipped end and is lightweight, so much the better.

 

I've said it before, but Halfords Superstores really do seem to have a good selection if knob transplants are the order of the day. Not too pricey either (otherwise how would 12 year olds with Vauxhall Novas be able to afford them from their pocket money?).

 

 

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