Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

1.4SS - Haynes manual?


olij

Recommended Posts

greetings!

 

Please could any of you recommend any good haynes manual, or other, that will let me discover some background/spec/what bits are for a 1400K supersport? I am used to my old crossflow and find the K a lot more daunting so would like a reference guide.

 

Specifically I want to find out what is causing a small coolant leak at the front of the engine - any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

More generally, is it OK to simply unbolt bits, unclipping the sensors and other similar conections or does this upset it in any way? Does it just look more daunting than the x-flow?

 

thanks as usual,

Oli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know a man, who knows a man, who knows a man (repeat until heartily sick) who has the Rover K series engine workshop manual in PDF format together with the Rover 414 Haynes manual and lots of other useful information like the type '9'/'N' gearbox and all of the most common UK cars Haynes manuals, I could contact him for you if you drop me an email. Everything you need to know is contained therein. He might be persuaded to put it all on a CD for the price of a blank CD and the postage.

 

Oily

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mr phantom you sound like you are having a problems with the asembly guide

it is not the friendliest. the thing to do is read the part you are working on more than once if you are not sure ask. most members have had the same problems

dont rush it if you are stuck see if there is any members live near you. for a bacon role and a cup of tea most will help you out.

 

fredid=blue> smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thread hijack...........

He might be persuaded to put it all on a CD for the price of a blank CD

 

Made me laugh. We have a deal with TDK (or somebody) to supply 650 meg CD:R's at 1p each...................teeth.gif

 

/Thread hijack.

 

Edited by - Blatman on 12 Mar 2002 18:59:31

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It'll require a raid on a stationery cupboard, late at night. Being as I'm working until late tonight, I'll see if I can distract security long enough to swipe the (heavily guarded, naturally) stationery cupboard keys...............teeth.gif

 

Cue Mission Impossible theme........

 

This posting will self destruct......etc..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blatters,

 

My comments were tongue in cheek, we have a large supply of 'em here, but conjuring up a vision of you suspended by wires above the stationery cupboard in the dark wearing image intensifiers gave me a laugh.

 

I'll get my friends friends friend to cut a few copies for distribution.

 

Oily

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was playing it for laughs, so that's alright then........

conjuring up a vision of you suspended by wires above the stationery cupboard in the dark wearing image intensifiers gave me a laugh

 

Mission accomplished...................

 

Edited by - Blatman on 12 Mar 2002 20:55:10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back to thread.

 

Oli J.

I used the Haynes manual for the Rover 214 (Oct '89-Mar '96) & 414 (Mar '90-'95) for my 1400 SS. The book was in the library so I borrowed it & photocopied the relevant engine sections etc at work! Very useful.

Haynes ref no on the cover is 1689.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mysteriously exploring my CD-ROM drive I discover a load of workshop manuals on a mystery CD-ROM. The Rover 214 manual does appear to be #1689.

 

The K is very easy to work on and generally you can unbolt things and as long as you are sensible in following bolt tightening sequences on the major elements it doesn't get upset easily. Sensors are a simple unclip and reclip operation. Drain the coolant before taking off the inlet manifold, if you need to access anything low down on the inlet side. If refilling with coolant, raise the nose of the car and squeeze/flex the bottom radiator hose. K's are coolant sensitive. Don't put any old coolant in them. Best is to use Comma Coldstream (Propylene Glycol - which you can get premixed) or Rover 4-year coolant (which is the same stuff). If there is any doubt about the current coolant, drain and refill with this stuff.

 

If the coolant leak is behind the cambelt cover then it is possibly the water pump. Replacing this is reasonably straightforward, but requires resetting the timing belt. Look out for the coolant leak being between the head and the block because that will be more serious.

 

Edited by - Peter Carmichael on 13 Mar 2002 09:49:18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter,

 

I will hopefully have a better idea when I can look at manuals, but is there anyway of sourcing the leak without dismantling? the leak definitely originates from the front of the engine and the coolant runs along the outside of what I presume is the head gasket (need a manual!) but I think this may just be due to the gasket being an easy runoff point - is the water pump above the gasket?. it's a minute amount of coolant, had a look under cam belt cover but could not find anything obvious. would a pressure test highlight potential sources?

 

cheers

Oli

 

P.S. just been looking through the history and water leak crops up three times, each time the inlet manifold gasket has been replaced - is this a likely suspect? Any thoughts gratefully received.

 

Edited by - oli j on 13 Mar 2002 13:10:17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...