Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

ZeNAs Engine Part 2


Delbert

Recommended Posts

So the budget will extend to the 1900 Evo block from scholar, just not next month........

 

So the next questions are

 

1) Do I need / would I benefit from a competition clutch, what make should I look at

 

2) What does a lightened flywheel do???? ISTR something about engine braking, again where do I look for prices etc

 

3) These 'ere air boxes on the throttle bodies, other than reducing induction noise what other benefits are there

 

I'm rather reluctant to ring Oily until I am somewhere near the budget as I'm sure he has better things to do like earn a living *cool*

 

Cos it looks like I might as well do the full Monty in one go

 

When I get the mean reds the only thing to do is jump in the 7 ( with applebogies to Audrey)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i) Personally, I'd take the easy route and order the AP one from CC. More than sufficient for your needs. Don't forget to get the clutch-cover dynamically balanced with the rest of your kit.

 

ii) Less rotational inertia. More flexibility with gear changes - you can always let the revs drop slowly, but with a heavy clutch you can't *force* them to drop (or rise) as quickly. Plenty in the archives, and I'm sure PC's fingers are just starting to itch. Don't forget to get the flywheel dynamically balanced along with the rest of your kit... Personally, I would go for the CC R500 item. Works fine and is a reliable bit of kit as far as I'm concerned.

 

iii) Depending on the design and interaction between the box and the trumpets, you can end up with beneficial reflections of air pressure at certain revs. However, Dave J (I think - and OBNS?) came to the conclusion on the Emerald RR that the box actually restricted outright power.

 

 

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Equipe™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


 

Edited by - Myles on 21 Nov 2006 19:13:00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right, that answers a few bits.

 

But balancing, how does this happen ?

Do I send all the loose parts to Oily and he carries out his magic and builds all the bits together in an "accurate method " or do I have to have the unit assembles then , like wheel balancing its fine tuned??

 

When I get the mean reds the only thing to do is jump in the 7 ( with applebogies to Audrey)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Support Team

You take all the rotating parts (crank, flywheel, clutch cover, crank pulley - don't think I've forgotten anything) to Steve Smith at Vibration Free and collect a few days later with a perfectly balanced set up. It is like a very accurate wheel balance.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Support Team

I would go for the standard Caterham AP clutch (sourced from wherever you like *wink*) - it's plenty good enough for that power level.

I like the lightweight flywheel but it might take some getting used to having the revs die away so quickly. Caterham only do the R500 really lightweight one now so unless you find a second hand one you won't get the "intermediate" one that was fitted to the original Superlight.

I'd go for the airbox on the grounds of induction noise. It also means you can use your existing filter whereas you would have to purchase a different filter to use on the TBs without an airbox.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Delbert,

 

I'm geographically-challenged, but you might prefer to take the kit to the same place that all of my Alcestershire locals went to (V7SLR, me, Tom (IIRC), Pete Cox (also IIRC). Unfortunately, the name doesn't appear to be listed on my site. Should be able to look it up at the weekend though.

 

One thing that was missed off the list of items to balance (that you might be interested in adding) is to have the rods tumbled end-over-end and to have the pistons weighed and matched to the rods. It added £20-30 to the £60ish bill I paid for my pulley/crank/flywheel/clutch cover for V7s 1900. Worth considering - needs to be done before the pistons and rods are assembled though.

 

 

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Equipe™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm... I'd been pretty nervous about running a high tune K without a dry sump...

Though I'm a technical numpty, and I guess it depends on how much track work and how sticky tyres you plan on running.

 

BUT I have seen oil pressure loss on my 140 x-power SV on the road on list 1A tyres on a loooooonnnggg bend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been thinking about this,

 

When I'm cornering I'm near to MY limit allready and the Appollo has stopped the cavitaion.

 

So if I'm not going to be going through the corners any faster on the few trackdays/ sprints I do thinks should not change.

Now I am getting faster each year so thats why I'm looking at next winter.

 

There is know way I can afford all this in one go for at least another year

 

When I get the mean reds the only thing to do is jump in the 7 ( with applebogies to Audrey)

 

Edited by - Delbert on 22 Nov 2006 09:55:47

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be safer to wait 12 months and do the drysump at the same time rather than risk potential damage to the expensive engine? If you're toating big BHP, you'll want stickier rubber to put the power down...so your cornering speed will increase as your bravery does *wink*

 

I know it wouldn't be as much fun...but a lot cheaper on the wallet *tongue*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Del,

If funds/time don't allow all in one hit, then maybe consider your old 'option 1'. Ie standard 1.8 engine with your head/throttle bodies etc. This would give something around 180bhp wouldn't it? Which would be perfect for class 4 sprints next year.

 

You could then do the full hog next winter... with another year of experience under your belt. You also get two 'hits' for your money. one from 140 to 180 and then when you get used to that you step up to 220bhp....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...