robert green Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 Has anyone any wisdom with regard to buying a used seven. What are the main things to check and what should I avoid? The model I am looking at is a 1991 dedion super sprint. Any tips gratefully received! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bowden Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 If you buy from Caterham, you can't go far wrong, peace of mind is worth alot, in my book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 Erh .. From my one experience I looked for the following: Chassy tubes - Have a close look as its quite easy to spot damage. But all the tubes rust after a while .. As its an Xflow what is the engine like (does it breath heavily) - take note that some engine builders think the pistons used were rubbish, and its not uncommon to find xflows being rebuilt at 20,000 miles. Having said that though you could find xflows with much higher milage without any problems. Even if there is an issue this will give the opporunity to upgrade to forged pistons! I its probably better to get a well used, but well looked after car that a little used one, as the milages most caterhams do is small. One good indication of care is if the A frame bushes are ok or state of the oil(obvious I know). I'd take everything I've said with a pinch of salt as I've only ever brought one ! Greg, Q 880 RAE (Green/Ali XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 First tip would be to have a good search of the archives. There have been lots of similar posts in the past and plenty of people have put in depth responses. Once you've done that it should be plain sailing but it might be worth: 1) Posting more specific details of the car on here as it's likely that someone will know the car and will be able to give good input into its provenance. 2) Get someone who knows the cars to pop along with you to check it out. Sevens are sooooo different to any other car that you need experience of them to see if one's handling/feels as it should. If you don't know anyone for point (2), pop along to your area club meeting. Most people are exteremly friendly and I'd be surprised if you can't find someone who'd love to go along with you. It would still seem to be a buyer's market so take your time and enjoy the search for a car too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangers quotNquot Mas1697456953 Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 Quote "It would still seem to be a buyer's market so take your time and enjoy the search for a car too..." Could you give Caterham a bell and let them know about this Andy!!! Andy Marks VHPD7@aol.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 Things you forget, make a list of things to ask that you may feel important, example look at history with car. check millage matches history. paint code. tyre pressures. fuel it uses. what oil has been used. chassis no engine no inspect tyres immobiliser must have certificate to be any use any spare keys and immobiliser key and petrol cap locking wheel nut? and keys provided what switch does what [write it down as no handbook] any tax spare wheel HPI check worth the money sellers email address for futher contact jacking points get the owner to put up the hood and show you how to get inn and out. fresh MOT? There are more if you think about it and they will bug you later if you do not ask, so make a list and ask all the questions. Drive the car yourself to see if it goes in a straight line. Spend a long time checking the chassis and panel fit, listen to the engine, check for blue smoke. Some of these things will seem obvious but looking over a car with a big grin on your face may cloud your judgement and if possible go out in a few different models to get the feel of how they should ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Manager Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 ... and most important John Watson's Ultimate Buyers' Guide teeth.gif Edited by - site manager on 10 Mar 2002 10:48:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted March 10, 2002 Share Posted March 10, 2002 I'd run a mile if the car doesn't still look brand new! I reckon that most people who look after their 7s love them to bits. then there's the chap who just runs it into the ground. Look for evidence of love. E.g. waxoyl everywhere, few stone chips. Low evidence of rust around the headlamp supports, polished exhaust etc. As people have said there appear to be plenty of cars out there. I have to say that when I've been to aterham they sem to charge an awful lot of money for some ropey looking cars. Also - get long to your local meeting. you'll find someone there who'l look a car over for you (for a pint maybe). If you're local try Hants North and Berks on the last Thursdayof the month Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Edited by - millsn on 10 Mar 2002 23:42:13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted March 11, 2002 Share Posted March 11, 2002 millsn.. you're being a bit harsh !!! i disagree.... some cars that i know are loved and consequently exceptionally maintained, but are well used, so do look a bit 'ropey'. i have also seen cherished cars that look new, but closer inspection shows that they've been polished lots, maintained less, and hardly used at all. not good for these cars. j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dion E Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Robert, I bought a 92 dedion Super Sprint from Caterham last November over the Net!. Living over here in Jersey it was the only real option I felt happy with especially as it was the first Seven I have bought. On the whole the car was fairly priced and I got the spec I was looking for with the added bonus of a 1760 tuned engine. Mike the salesman was very helpful and even sent some parts over to me FOC even though their 4 month warranty does not cover Jersey. The car could be described as clean but it does need a little cosmetic tidy up. It very much depends on what you are looking for I wanted a car that had been well maintained (FSH) and didn't mind doing a bit of a work on it myself to bring it up to scratch, most of the Sevens I have seen of that age do need a little work if you are looking for ultimately a pukka car alternatively you may just want to enjoy owning and above all driving it. The dedion I think is a good choice, not quite as tail happy as the live axle cars but I prefer the disk brakes all around on the dedion they fell like they are actually going to stop the car. The crossflow also sound the biz. Dion Edited by - Dion E on 12 Mar 2002 09:31:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Check the wheel studs for overtighening or stress with the not so good tolerance wheel nuts that were about a few years ago (still may be for all I know). This was of course the only think that I did not check when I bought my 3rd 7 in 2000. Darren B has had the same problem on his car. I think Darren has not actually overtighted the nuts but Sticky tyres and poor quality threads could have the same effect. I bought longer studs and open 21mm race nuts for that full thread experience.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casbar Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 If you are going for a xflow, then the live axle in my view, is a better option (less weight). The ital live axle is fine for power upto around the 190 bhp region, which for a xflow will be a storming engine. If you are going to change the engine for a zetec, then you maybe heading for geater power, therefore the de-dion is probably the better option. You could also look for a Ford Live axle which is stronger. If your going for a K or Vx, then no option, go for the de-dion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 Nigel, I think you were too harsh based on headlamp bases - mine started going rusty while the car was still being built - as it lived outside. I could not be bothered to fight that particular battle. But chassis rails was a different matter - any bare metal or rust was immediately hammerite'd. Similarly, any odd noise was always tracked down and cured. It depends on whether you want to spend your time keeping a car to Concours standards or driving it! However, I would agree on full service history, as anyone who loves their car will keep every reciept - even for the Xmas presents. Cheers, Graham Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olij Posted March 12, 2002 Share Posted March 12, 2002 try hard not to be dazzled by the initial shinyness/sparkling bits or experience of being driven in it. be objective and buy with brain not trousers(!) - may require more self control than you expect. take a torch and have a good look underneath and up at the chassis sections, around the sides of the fuel tank etc - as said, accident damage is relatively easy to spot. enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted March 16, 2002 Share Posted March 16, 2002 why don,t you build one, buy a new chassis, suspension, lights brakes and plug in a second hand ex caterham c/flow,£400-700 xr4i g/box £150 and a set of reasonable condition alloys £35ea all the other trim items with the exception of the doors ( rare as rocking horse s~#t) can be purchased from this web site.I have had bad experiences with a nicely presented rally car & w*******d in the past both had many problems which cost many £1000,s of pounds to put right.if you build it yourself the car has very few items to go wrong as 90% of your car is new, the car should only be slightly in excess of a second hand one. my live axle car cost about £11000 to build this includes a new LSD and a dry sump system, my crossflow unfortunately was not an ex caterham unit and i had to buy a new fly wheel ring gear and starter motor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted March 17, 2002 Share Posted March 17, 2002 Hugh, What about the SVA and an Xflow - some how I do not think it will pass ! Greg, Q 880 RAE (Green/Ali XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert green Posted April 3, 2002 Author Share Posted April 3, 2002 Thanks for all the replies, which have been very helpful. I have now bought a lovely 1700ss with dedion chassis, in BRG with yellow anniversary stripe, leather s type interior etc etc. 8000 miles one owner,on an M plate - paid £10,500 which I didn't think was bad as it is immaculate. Thanks again - hope to meet some of you blatting! Edited by - robert Green on 3 Apr 2002 21:22:07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted April 4, 2002 Share Posted April 4, 2002 To Robert Green. Congratulations on the car. sounds like you got a good deal just in time for all the good weather. I have only had my 1700SS for a month now,my first 7, best thing I ever did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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