Jacking Points

[F355GTS]

Idiot Question of the week!

 

For a trolley jack are where?

[Nick VVC]

I use the same points as for the scissor jack - seem to work OK.

 

Nick

[New Barbie]

back end - rear of A-frame or under towing eye

front - under towing eye

 

on my trolley jack I've removed the plate and the hole that is left is much better for either of these points to locate. At the front you might need to "lift" the suspension to get the towing eye in the hole.

 

Don't use the centre X at the front as a jacking point.

 

[Tony]

Not an idiot question at all.

 

For the rear (mine's a live axle car) you can just squeeze your TJ under the diff housing/'A' frame bush mounting. Put some cardboard/rubber into the jack 'cup' for protection. Jack it up and then lower the car onto the axle stands, which you will have placed under the appropriate tubing as Caterham recommend.

 

The front is more of a problem. I TJ under the towing eye and then whack the axle stands in as soon as it's high enough, but the towing eye is on one side and I don't like the thought of the chassis twisting as the car is raised. Maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily, but does anybody out there have a better suggestion?

[Tony]

Sorry Count, I seem to be repeating most of what you say. I must have been composing my posting whilst you were posting yours...

[Slarty Blat Fast]

And when using axle stands do put a little piece of old carpet between the stand and the chassis tubing to protect the powder coat.

 

Slarty Blat Fasttongue.gif

[F355GTS]

Thanks again!

[Nigel Riches]

This maybe all to cock, but I have a long (approx 5ft) 2x4 inch timber which I place beneath the chassis side rail, and jack the whole side of the car at one time, no nasty twisting moments to get the chassis out of shape, place necessary stands, and jack the other side, the lower pivot of the "A" frame is NOT the place to lift the rear of the car, lift by jacking under the axle tube, at the front again a stout piece of timber the full width across the chassis at this point, under the chassis tubes, at the point where they form a fully triangulated rectangle, in line with the front suspension mountings, is a good point to lift, the old pink book, if you know what I'm talking about, shows the front jacking points under the outer pivot of the wishbone, and the rear jacking points at the outer end of the axle tube, between the suspension pick-up, and the brake back plate, and it further states "under no circumstances should any attempt be made to raise the car from other points", well that's as maybe, hope this has been of some help, Regards Nigel.

[Allan Haighton]

Hi

I can't take the idea of jacking up the front using the towing eye (chassis twist worried me to).

I've had a bridging piece cut from 1/2 steel bar. This has side pieces welded on it to form a U shape. The inside of the U is lined with rubber mat. The bridging piece runs fron side to side of the car and fits under the front cross member.

 

I jack the car up with the bridging piece in place, then place axle stands under the bridging piece too.

 

This gives me 'symmetrical' lifting of the front of the car with no danger of bending the chassis.

 

Important to remove the bridging piece once the car is off its jacks though. Doesn't do for it drop off under car while driving up the road....

[Peter Carmichael]

Jacking under the a-frame bush puts loads onto the axle/de dion tube that it was never designed for.

 

The pre-'96 non-race (narrow triangle) de dion tubes had a habit of snapping at the end of the triangular reinforcement. This could well be down to habitual jacking under the A-frame bush.

 

I try to avoid jacking here, but then again I tend to string the car up from my engine crane using the FIA bar.