Dunsfold Dave Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 I sheared off the bolt nearest the rear wheel arch the other day as I needed to change my tax disc which was bolted to it. So I brought some good drill bits to drill it out. I drilled through the thing then using one of those anti clockwise taps ('Easy outs') tried to remove it, only for the tap to break inside. So now I'm stuck with a siezed bolt with a broken tap inside!!!! I'm going to try and file down the end so as perhaps I can drill the tap out. I may then be able to drill through with a bigger bit to try and free the thing. There virtually no thread showing and my mole grips can't get a purchase. Does anyone have any clever ideas? and if I cannot get it out what is left to do? DD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Oh dear, I believe that the easy out will be much harder than the bolt and hence be very difficuly to drill. I wonder it a small cutting disc on a Dremel would allow you to cut a slot into the top of what's there. There use an impact screwdriver to try and remove it. I would add plenty of penetrating oil over night whilst you have a nice glass of wine before trying this in the morning. Hope you get it out Dave. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westfield Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Difficult one…. The problem with the reverse type easy outs is that they expand the stud un the hole, making it hard to get out! I have never had any success with them… the straight fluted ones are better. Problem now is that the easy out is VERY hard and will be impossible to drill… I have a couple of suggestions though…. First, try using a cutting disk in a dremel to cut a slot in the easy out and then turn it to remove it? The other way I have had some success with is to put a nut over the top of the broken stud and use a stick welder to tack the nut to the stud. The heat from the weld often helps. I used the method last year to remove a broken tap from a Suzuki engine case, came out a treat! Good luck! Click here to go to my web site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westfield Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 ahhhhhhhhhhhh must type faster! Steve Aren’t Dremels great 😬 Click here to go to my web site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 The welding trick is a good one, just get the flammables out of the way first. Drilling Easiouts is a no-no. Throw the others away and get a set of Torx bits. Next time you drill a hole and find a Torx bit that you can hammer in. Then just get a socket on it. You will then have considerable fun getting the bit out of the hole, fortunately they are compliant with hammer and chisel methods. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 The Dremel concept is good but at around £100 I found it poor value when it fell to pieces after little use, & sadly out of warranty. Purchased a similar German made product for £20 which completed the task in much greater style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 You can drill out easy outs using a full carbide drill bit - though these are no only very expensive but very brittle too - take care ❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 You can sometimes get a broken bolt out by using a centre punch at the edge of the bolt. Soak in Plus gas to free off the rust seal. Hit the broken end with a large hammer and drift to loosen the thread. Then centre punch near the edge and tap (hard) in a anti-clockwise movement. The broken bit is being held in by rust, break this seal and it will come out easily. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 DD, As the threaded bush is welded onto the top face of the bottom chassis rail I would remove the interior ali panel and drive out the broken stud remover with a centre punch and small hammer. It should come out as you are working it away from the taper. I would then drill out the remainder of the broken bolt using the ID of the threaded bush as the guide for the drill bit then run a tap down the thread from the inside. Good luck Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunsfold Dave Posted November 6, 2006 Author Share Posted November 6, 2006 Thanks for your help everyone. I do have some Carbide drill bits, which I used to drill through the bolt. I shall probably try taking the centre punch and hammer to it from the rear. However how about I leave it in and fabricate a new bracket which straddles the old bolt location. If i drill throught he chassis rail and bolt a stainless steel plate front and rear and weld a new bracket to the front plate. Do you think bolting a plate front and back of the chassis rail will maintain its strength? DD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 Personally I'd rather get the bolt out. Two 8 or 10mm holes through the chassis rail is going to take a lot of strenght out and I wouldn't be happy with two plates bolt to it. just my view though with no scientific knowledge applied. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 Probably a bit expensive, but a small tungsten carbide burr may shift the broken stud remover enough to have another go at stud removing. Heat is usually the best bet for freeing rusted in studs. Cheers J&J JFDI (Just F*****g Do It) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted November 6, 2006 Share Posted November 6, 2006 Solid Carbide drill will dril out the easy out (rubbish things)! If you are not fortunate enough to have such an item (expensive and snap VERY easy) then use a masonary bit.......! Sounds daft, but they are carbide tipped....! Resulting hole will not be as accurate as a solid carbide drill but it wil do the job! Just dont drill it out full size as the drill will want to jump around a little and tends to leave a slightly oval hole.........! P.S. Dont run it too fast or else it will burn out.....also keep it wel lubricated with cutting oil if you can get some if not lots of WD40.............! Good luck P.P.S..........Where do you live because if it all fails I have a selection of solid carbide drills and I would drill it for you? Sorry can't post them as they break VERY easy with drilling and if not experienced they would simply turn into dust before your eyes..........£25 ea!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Rob, There's a couple of clues to Dave's location in his username and location 😬 😬 😬 Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Yea.........noticed my error as soon as I posted..........! 😳 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 If there is a stub of bolt showing on the INSIDE, you should be able to slot it with a hacksaw, or if there's no clearance, with an airsaw (pneumatic hacksaw) or a Dremel though I've never used one myself. THEN, using a heavy object held OUTSIDE the chassis, get an impact screwdriver into your slotted inner stub and belt 6 kinds of merry hell out of it till it moves OUT of the hole. If you try and drive it IN, you have the problem that the 'easyout' has expanded the stub, so it's MUCH easier driving it out. I had this problem on the rear Watt link bolt on my SV recently and this is the method I used. The biggest prob was making sufficient access which meant removing the fuel tank.You will have to remove the entire inner panel which is a pain. Use heat and WD40 as well before hitting it. Good luck! SeaView!!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Edited by - Unclefester on 8 Nov 2006 10:57:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now