John Gaines Posted March 2, 2002 Share Posted March 2, 2002 Can anyone advise on chassis modifications required to replace the Ital axle with the Ford? Zetec going in soon so advice welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 2, 2002 Share Posted March 2, 2002 John This is something I will be doing next Winter and have investigated quite thoroughly in preparation. The main modification is to the back of the transmission tunnel where it needs to be widened on the drivers side only to accommodate the bigger and slightly offset Ford diff. nose. It is quite possible to do yourself but I have elected to let Arch Motors do mine, at least I know it will then look the part and will have been done properly. Arch will also carry out the necessary mods to the Ford axle tube for you by welding on the suspension lugs and stiffening plate etc. You will need to fit a smaller pinion flange to the diff. which is, in fact, an Anglia item and available from W*******d, then the prop shaft will need to be shortened and fitted with a flange to match the diff. Finally, of course, the wheels will need to be changed for the Ford stud pattern which utilises a larger pcd than the Ital. In all it is not inexpensive but necessary, I believe, to really use the potential of the Zetec. Hope this helps Brent teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted March 2, 2002 Share Posted March 2, 2002 John, Just to let you know that, futher to our chat, the axle has all the appropriate brackets and strengthening plates already put on by Arch. Let me know if you are still interested in the swap Regards Mike C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 Brent, Do you have the sizes relative to the anglia/escort dif flange, my ford axle instalation is tight at that point and I think I may be running the original escort flange. Regards, allen Zetec with ford axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MARK WARREN Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 You will also have to alter the handbrake rod at the drivers side , slight shortening & then re aligning of the 'blades' that attach to the brake lever. I suggest that the diff 'nose' is ground down a few mil to prevent nylocks catching . Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 allen, Sorry I don't have the sizes available, I just know the Anglia item has a smaller diameter. I am sure if you call W*******d, they will be able to tell you as they have had a batch specially manufactured. Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 Allen, I believe it to be 85 mm. Just measured it. Mike C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allen Posted March 3, 2002 Share Posted March 3, 2002 Thanks Brent, thanks Mike. I guess the outside diameter is the 85mm not PCD? Thank again, allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edmandsd Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 Talk to Aaron Tucker at HT Racing (01474 872888) - They've done a few of these conversions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravellinMan Posted March 4, 2002 Share Posted March 4, 2002 just a quick note on wheel studs... i had the original ford stud holes welded up and the hubs redrilled for the triumph pattern. now i don't have to replace the front hubs and all the wheels to match the rears. also use ford studs as they are thicker than the standard Ital ones. lastly, be very carefull with the hubs/drums/wheels. i used triumph studs to start with (slight taper from "hub" diameter to thread diameter) and the hub was machined back to clear the superlite wheel centres. unfortunalty the hub was machined back too far and, even with the wheel nuts done up tight, the drums were able to move and lock the brakes. machine the hubs to clear the wheel centres but leave enough to centre the drum on. Travellin' Man Tony Boyd 97,000 miles in 6 years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Monoogian Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggggggggggggggh *mad* *mad* Had fitted the front wheels and put the rear on axle stands in order to centre the (Ford) axle. Noticed the offset diff-nose and its proximity to the transmission tunnel but it initially looked as if it would be ok. Now I've measured it up, the axle has to move to the right by a few more mm putting it perilously close to the electrical, brake and fuel lines. I searched the archive and found this thread which has upset me to say the least. I paid a lot of money to Arch to have my chassis rejigged and reskinned last year. If, as it now appears, it's all wrong do I have to strip the car down and send it back 🤔 🤔 🤔 If I had known about this at the time I would have made sure it was known it was a Ford axle being installed. Surely Arch should have asked as a matter of routine if it's so critical 🤔 Has anyone got a Ford axle installed without having this mod done? All I want is for someone to say "it's a tight fit but it does work". I'm going to get a local sevening friend to have a look but will fume quietly in the meantime as I'm back off to uni tomorrow and will have to wait 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gaines Posted September 27, 2002 Author Share Posted September 27, 2002 Sam, have you the smaller diff flange fitted on your axle? you should have. I put a ford axle in my live axle car without any mods to the tunnel. By the way W*******d wanted £50 for a smaller prop flange and I purchased a new one from Fisher cars at Marden for £10 new! It is a standard QH product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry.h Posted September 27, 2002 Share Posted September 27, 2002 Yes, it's a tight fit but it does work. I replaced my Ital with a Ford a couple of years ago with no mods at all. Totally straightforward providing you have the smaller flange. Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonycaterham Posted September 28, 2002 Share Posted September 28, 2002 Hi, I have done this conversion myself, earlier this year. Bought axle with 3.9 diff from specialist Ford Escort breakers for £30. Stripped it and took it to Arch to have brackets welding on and painted about £150. Bruce Robinson is the man, really nice.helpful guy. Bought small axle flange from W*******d only to find you can buy then from TranX for less. www.tran-x.com They make them for W*******d I believe. Also bought plate type LSD from Tran-X, very noisy, but works!!. If car mainly for road use go Quaife. New brake drums, shoes, cylinders and wheels bearings. Changed to late type studs (M12) on rear axle as Ford axles of this age will have UNF. If turn backplates on axle round so master cylinders are at the bottom then all the original linkage bar and cable from Ital axle can be connected up and works!! Will need new brake pipes as brake unions are different. Had prop shortened by 1 inch and new smaller flange fitted to go with smaller diff flange cost about £60 from Proposhaft Clinic in Bradford excellent job www.propshaft .co.uk Also bought new Ford PCD front hubs from Merlin Motorsport but expensive about £80 each Would recommend changing to Ford PCD all round as far more choice of wheels about. Bought Ford PCD wheels from blatchat. Sold old wheels and axle through blatchat!!! All fitted no fouling anywhere. Set off down road first right hander giving it a bit the propshaft catches!! Back home seats out, carpet out, drill out all rivets round tunnel to rear panel area on drivers side. There is a metal hoop at back of tunnel which is rivetted to a bracket. drill out rivets and then reposition inside the bracket ie nearer to the transmission tunnel skin if you see the bracket all become clear. Doing this plus gentle use of a piece wood and a tyre lever gave me enough clearance, then rivetted all back together. Only about 6 rivet holes at the rear transmission tunnel to back panel do not use original holes and are now spaced about 5mm further out. Carpet covers the work! Car has done 4 trackdays and 3 sprints on 205X13 A21Rs , no problem!! I am going for the rosejointed A frame from Caterham about £80, because I am repeatedly wrecking the rear taper bush but probably due to kerb hopping. P S. I am no Peter Carmichael technical whiz but it can all be done with a bit of time and patience. Also saved myself at least £300 by not paying for a garage to do it and learnt a lot more about my 7. Hope this helps Tony 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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