VINTAGEAUSTIN Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Silly question time My car has a 4-2-1 system and I need to replace it with my spare catylist system for the MOT. However, it does not want to budge from the downpipe end despite prolific use of a rubber mallett. Does anyone have any tips for removal, as I am concerned that if I hit it any harder I may cause damage The 4-2-1 system was already fitted when I bought the car Glynn Blatting for England in the Dordogne!! - Holidays at Chateau Marotte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 We had a similar problem on Jason's Powerspeed system. We sprayed it with WD40 around the joints and then applied a brute force technique as well. Once it started to move, it went quite easily. Phil Waters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Glynn, WD40, let it soak in, then the trick is a twisting movement. DON'T let it get out of line, you shouldn't need a mallet, just keep it all in line and using the rest of the system as leverage, twist it to and fro and it should all slide off a treat! 😬 Blackout!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Twisting (and a certain amount of wiggling) has always worked for me. I've found the integral-cat systems to generally be the hardest to remove, but that might be (bad)luck. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VINTAGEAUSTIN Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Cheers Guy's, Three hours and a can of WD40 later, there is still no sign of ANY movement from any of the joints I think I will wait for tomorrow and have THREE SHREDDED WHEAT before I try again 😬 Blatting for England in the Dordogne!! - Holidays at Chateau Marotte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Glynn, do you want me to come over and have a go? I had the same problem with mine on the SV........ I'll bring me pown Weetabix. Blackout!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 try heating up the outer part of the sleeve, and then wriggling tapping hammmering etc for the heat you can use a hot air paint stripper, or a plumbers torch, or Oxy-acetylene torch do achieve the required result, I suggest having a fire extinguisher close by - Just in case ❗ good luck 😬 Oh and when you re-assemble the exhaust remember to liberally apply 'Coppaslip' This will make removal much easier the next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wile7 Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Heating will help if you can get a general heat source in - a camping gaz type blow torch will work on a light flame. If you have some 'good' (asbestos/thick leather) gloves you could idle the car for a wee while too As above - frie ex at hand and a bucket of water just in case . Dave Ardley. White Xflow with Clams Don't point that beard at me, it might go off. Groucho Marx Updated photos here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VINTAGEAUSTIN Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Thanks again everyone - it is now off Trouble now is that the catylist system does not align with the 4 downpipes Nick, if you fancy coming over to assist with the big hammer, we would be pleased to see you both. It is also the Cep Fete (mushrooms to those not in France) in the village tomorrow, so if you both want to make a day of it, give me a call or email Cheers Glynn Blatting for England in the Dordogne!! - Holidays at Chateau Marotte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Glynn...I may come over for a simple blat/test of the newly reassembled SV, which I've just now got running with its new Watt linkage bolts. If we do come over it'll be in 2 cars as we have a friend here, or I'll come on my own. I'd like to have a butchers at your EU2 engine anyway. 😬 Glad you got the zorst off! Blackout!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VINTAGEAUSTIN Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 Nick, No problem, please bring your friends with you - if we are not at the house, we will be just down in the village square sampling the food and vino As it may be busy, park at our house and wander down - we will have a bottle open ready 😬 Cheers Glynn Blatting for England in the Dordogne!! - Holidays at Chateau Marotte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Glynn, use houshold clear silicone when reassmebling, it will seal as well as make removel easier. I'm not sure about coppaslip, surely it will bake hard over time, or just burn away. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VINTAGEAUSTIN Posted October 1, 2006 Author Share Posted October 1, 2006 Thanks Norman, As soon as it has been CT'd, I shall swap them back over again and will take your advice What a last lap from Jenson *thumbup* Glynn Blatting for England in the Dordogne!! - Holidays at Chateau Marotte Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 I'm not sure about coppaslip, surely it will bake hard over time, or just burn away. I suspect that it will be blown out over time - then again, we seem to disagree about the efficiacy of silicone too... I suspect it's because the gap I have to fill on my collector is larger than yours, missus... Bits of beer-can seem to help me though. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 Copaslip, will prevent the 2 surfaces rusting which is the main cause of seized exhaust joints. It's always worked well for me , of course it's your exhaust, do what you think is best for you Good luck either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 S47zz, Stainless Steel doesn't rust. Coppa slip is grease based and will burn away over time. It may leave the copper element but the grease will burn. Silicone doesn't burn. Myles. I don't disagree, only that I have used household stuff and it's worked as well as the expensive stuff. Glynn, smear lots on the inside of the outer pipes. Don't worry about too much, just get the whole surface covered. Refit pipes, wipe excess from outside. Start engine, drive, warm up and give it a bit of full throttle. The excess on the inside will be blown out. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 maybe clear houshold silicone will stop the collector rattling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S47zz Posted October 1, 2006 Share Posted October 1, 2006 N Verona UR wrong stainless steel doesn't rust provided air can get at it, but on exhaust joints where air is not present it rusts justs as badly as steel. 🙆🏻 Another one to watch out for:- I once bought some of that expensive exhaust manifold wrap to try and keep my underbonnet temps down, well I succeeded in keeping the temps down only to have my expensive S/S manifold rust - 'oxidise to nothing within a year I agree though that the household silicon is as good as the Branded expensive stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 Mind you, there's stainless steel and there's Stainless Steel. Differing formulae give different rust resistance. Interesting about the exhaust wrap....Norm doesn't like it either! Anyone want to buy some? SeaView!!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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