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Urgent advice on X/F removal please


Clay Head

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I am taking my X/F engine out of the car this weekend for inspection /rebuild. I had planned to remove the engine leaving the bellhousing and gearbox in place. Before I waste too much time, is this possible? If so do you need to loosen off the gearbox mountings at all? (The chassis is a pre 96 style with twin wishbones) Any advice on this would be much appreciated.

 

Tim

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It can be done. There are two camps on this issue. I have always taken the box and engine out complete. The last time, it was quite tricky to get the box lined up correctly with the engine, and that was on the bench, so I wouldn't have liked to try with the box still in the car.

 

So no experience of leaving the box in. Someone will be along shortly to tell you how its done.

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Tim

 

Have just done exactly what you are attempting (swapped by bog stock 1600 XF for a bigger beefier 1700)

 

The advice I was given and used was undo the gearbox mounts underneath and slip the box back as far as it will go (once you've undone it from the engine) support front of bellhousing on trolley jack, this then gives enough clearence to be able to pull the engine forward off the input shaft & splines, its tight but it will go.

 

Its advisable to remove as many ancillaries as possible(oil pump may foul upper chassis member and you will certainly have to remove one engine mount(once its supported by the engine crane) to get it out through the hole

 

When putting it back it is quite hard to align the box again, it helps if you put the box in gear and get someone to rotate a rear wheel back and forth to align the slines.

 

Hope the above helps

 

 

Graham

 

cool.gif1700 Live Axle X/Flow, got the engine upgrade now all I've got to do is try & beat the rest of the guys up the hill!!!!!id=red> cool.gif

 

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Tim

 

I have always installed/removed engine and gearbox together and found it straitforward, be aware that the gearbox oil will spill out of the back of the box as the whole assembly tilts. A large plastic sheet or container is essential.

 

Once helped a mate who insisted on splitting them in the car and then refitting engine later, never again. The next time I assisted him I persuaded him to try it as a full assembly, he has never split them in the car since.

 

Paul

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The last time I removed mine I split them in the car, but attached the gearbox to the engine before reinstalling. If you splt then first, you can, as Graham says, slide the gearbos back to give yourself some room, and when you remove the gearbox you can do it without tilting it and pouring all the oil out the back. It's not a bad job to refit the whole thing in one, less problem lining it all up when done on the bench.

 

Dave H

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I've used both methods and favour the all out in one go approach. So much depends upon final lining up of spigot shaft int the clutch/flywheel. on the bench or floor its dead easy. If you do leave the box in place then supporting it underneath can be troublesome as it aint flat. Use a metal rod accross the upper chassis rails and then tie this to the lug on top of the box. Put some cloth under the rod to avoid scratching the chassis.

Keep in mind the fact that if you remove the engine and box then you will need some reasonable height in order to allow clearance for in and out proceedures.

Dont advise doing it by yourself. Get someone to help if only to avoid snagging on bits of wire. We didnt remove the oil pump housing only the alternator and nearside engine mounting

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Tim,

 

I find it easier to split it and lift the block out seperately (Don't need quite as much height as stated earlier). I don't bother moving the box back just pull the block forward and up. Find its easier this way when working alone. When its out I then take the box out and generally manage it without oil p*ssing out of the rear of the box. (I'm convinced gearbox oil is made by mixing garlic and cat's p*ss.wink.gif) Putting it back I use the tried and tested 'all in one' approach.

 

Good luck

 

Phil Owen.

 

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