Flying kiwi Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Refitting my exhaust, i think, well i know, that i have stripped one of the bolts that go into the head [bull in a china shop]. I could either a] leave it alone as the exhaust is not leaking or b]Help!!! Is it a major to remove the head? what is the correct procedure? and again refitting the head what is the correct procedure.? torque settings etc etc. My wife has her own question. Am i a] a complete prat or b] just half a prat? [lovely wife] And is there a torque setting for the exhaust bolts? regards Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Would suggest either: Helicoil or wurth insert it or more easily, just ap it out next size and drill exhaust to suit. Dead easy, no need ot remove head, just stuff rag up ports to stop swarf entering. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 What Engine??? This is easy to do on the VX if you use bolts instead of studs. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Bull in a.... Shouldn't that be too big a kiwi in an egg cup? If it's just stripped on the stud thread you can probably get it out with lots of penetrating oil some local heat and unscrewing it with mole grips... (remember molegrips?). If it's too flush you could try drilling it and stud removers that are left hand self tappers with a square on the end you can turn. If you have real trouble I know a mobile thread doctor...I jest not. He will come out to you with all his tools and knowledge. He's not that cheap but neither are the alternatives... He will only do enthusiast vehicles cos he's been ripped off in the past.... Edited by - stevefoster on 28 Feb 2002 13:33:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying kiwi Posted February 28, 2002 Author Share Posted February 28, 2002 Arnie, it is a k series. the stud in the block is just turning, so yes steve a doctor may need to be called. how much is expensive? Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Helicoiling is straightforward, its just that access to the exhaust flange given the inclination of the K engine as installed in the caterham might make it difficult, there is plenty of material in the heads core to take the hole out to the next size (M12) so you could simply drill and tap and use a bigger bolt. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Kiwi, Please, please helicoil it. Do the job properly. The M12 route would only be acceptable if you made a step-stud; there is as I recall little enough room for the standard fixings. I reckon a short series drill and angle drive will do it. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Timeserts are another alternative and are stronger than a helicoil. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying kiwi Posted February 28, 2002 Author Share Posted February 28, 2002 My mechanical knowledge is limited, There`s more chance of the kiwi flying than me understanding these below Helicoil/ yeh what the f..k is that, and as for timeserts i ought to get out more please explain all of the above and how hard/difficult/costly all this will be. Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Sjwb, There is plenty of room for a larger bolt / capscrew / setscrew and there is nothing intrinsically wrong with using an M12 capscrew in place of the M10, the hole will have to go to M12 anyway (or near it) to accomodate the helicoil and I have seen too many helicoils wind themselves in or out destroying the hole to have absolute faith in them. Anyway.. back to the question, drilling and tapping the hole will be awkward given its position so engaging a specialist to do it would be a good idea, I think £30 - £40 should see it done and dusted. A helicoil is a helix or coil of material much like a coilbound spring which forms a threaded tube with thread on the inside (to match the original thread being reclaimed) and thread on the outside to match the new (larger) hole being drilled and tapped. Once the new hole has been drilled and tapped, the helicoil insert is wound in and quite neatly forms a new tapped hole of the required dimensions. Oily Edited by - oilyhands on 28 Feb 2002 16:04:01 Edited by - oilyhands on 28 Feb 2002 16:07:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wag Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 So that on future occasions when you remove the stud, the helicoil comes with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 You misunderstood me Oily, I was refering to having different sized fasteners - you know having to use different sized tools. Damned untidy whatquestion.gif I have never seen a correctly specified and fitted Heliciol come out unintentionaly. Using a locking type Helicoil on a bolt rather than a stud may well remove itself with the fastener, whereas the plain type will not. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coose Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Helicoil it you clumsy oaf! Go to your local motorbike shop and ask them - most should be able to help you out for around a tenner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 28, 2002 Share Posted February 28, 2002 Timeserts are more expensive, but: TIME-SERT® is a solid bushing insert. This guarantees easy installation and allows for full load use of tapped hole, ensuring protection against stress and vibration. TIME-SERT® is thin walled due to synchronized internal external threads. Thin cross sectional area allows for installation in areas of limited space and clearance material. TIME-SERT® is self locking. On installation the bottom internal threads of the insert are cold rolled to expand the mating external threads into the base material locking the insert in place. See http://www.timesert.com/ Phil Stewart at RRT has a kit if you need them fitted. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying kiwi Posted March 1, 2002 Author Share Posted March 1, 2002 Thank`s to everyone whom replied to my bull in a china shop tactics. Mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying kiwi Posted March 1, 2002 Author Share Posted March 1, 2002 should be who replied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted March 2, 2002 Share Posted March 2, 2002 Thread doc will cost about £60 I reckon. I can get his number if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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