Tigger Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 It's just about time to replace the front wheel bearings on the 7, but before I start to make a pigs ear are there any web sites with instructions which might help me a little. Regards Tig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Sort of like this here Remove wheels Remove brake caliper bolts slide off caliper Remove split-pin from end of stub axle Remove castellated nut from end of stub axle Pull off disc and hub assembley Remove bearings and spacers Keep any washers and spacers in correct order Check bearing races/cups for wear, drift out and replace if required (unlikely) Replace new bearings, loaded with bearing grease Reassemble with spacers Tighten castellated nut until just tight, with spanner, then back off about 1 flat on the nut. Replace split pin Replace wheels Duratec SV, built in Dubai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigger Posted September 10, 2006 Author Share Posted September 10, 2006 Brilliant, Thanks. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Not directly relevant, but there are a couple of pics here 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7's Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dobuy Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Looks relevant to me Duratec SV, built in Dubai Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 I would replace the races as a matter of course. They come with the kit and you know you are then using all new bits. They are only £15 a side after all. Top tip - soak the felty seal in oil before fitting it, this will keep the water out and grease in. Don't overfill the bearings, just put a generous blob in and leave space for it to run out if it gets hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Looks relevant to me Yes, I suppose so - what I meant was that I didn't write that as a specific wheel-bearing article. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7's Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red SLR Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 Changing the bearings is an easy job really, however changing the races is not an easy task if they are stuck in there. And once you start to drift them out you have to do it as they get damaged. Easy job to put new ones in though, use the old bearing you are about to bin as a drift with a small bit of soft wood on the top and place hub on a floor on some more soft wood and use a small heavy mallet to tap into place. LeMans 2006 photos here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigger Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 All good info and great tips, thanks guys. Tig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBL Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Good stuff! rutabaga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 thanks for this, just about to do mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted October 23, 2011 Area Representative Share Posted October 23, 2011 Despite what is stated above, please make sure you replace the whole lot (bearings and races). To put new parts with worn parts is very bad practice. All the parts will have had the same wear. Matching new bits with old bits is likely to bring on premature failure. Edited by - Paul Richards on 23 Oct 2011 11:34:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dignity Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Quoting Paul Richards: Despite what is stated above, please make sure you replace the whole lot (bearings and races). To put new parts with worn parts is very bad practice. All the parts will have had the same wear. Matching new bits with old bits is likely to bring on premature failure. I just learned this........... The hard way 😶🌫️ This may have caused my hub failure (over 100quid). As it only takes a few minutes extra to replace the races this really is good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ditto regarding the races, they should definitely be replaced. I replaced a wheel bearing in a few months ago. Ian (SM25T) gave me a brilliant tip to make fitting the bearing races easier - which was to heat up the hub in the oven before trying to fit the bearing races. I wrapped the hub in foil (it was clean, but I didn't want to contaminate my oven) and left it in at 150degC for 5-10mins. The races slid in very easily, only a very light force was required to get them in place. At the same time, you could make life even easier by cooling the races in a freezer, although I didn't do this because I don't have a freezer. Plus, the majority of benefit is found by heating the hub (with the expansion coefficient of aluminium being a lot higher than steel). Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Alcan or Bacofoil?? 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenF Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 er... Tesco own brand I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Easier than putting the hub in an oven is to put a fan heater under the hub or just point it at it once removed. Putting the race in the freezer is also Bearing in mind that many jobs are done in the cooler months, I have found that the fan heater trick helps in many situations: Apollo Tank bottom nut Sump Oil Nut (or take it out for a run) Gearbox filler nut It also has the advantage of warming the garage. 10-15 mins is all it needs. You do need to aim the heater at the offending part.... Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Having tried it a few times I'm not supportive of the freezer suggestion. By the time you get to fitting the part and having handled it a fair bit it's almost back to room temp at the point of fitting. The heating idea is far better as you can get that much more energy into the part using the bigger temp differential. Don't get me wrong if you have a cryogenic unit hanging around fair enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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