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VVC Plenum vs clutch cable


shn7

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My K series (non VVC) has the VVC plenum fitted. The rearmost inlet underneath this get in the way a bit of the clutch cable as it exits the pedal box. The end result it that they have rubbed against each other to the extent that I fear in the future either the cable will fail or it will erode a hole in the underside of the inlet tract.

 

Does anyone else have this problem or have a good solution? It's close enough to the pedal box that there seems no scope for ty-wrapping the cable down to prevent the rubbing without perhaps causing drag on the clutch actuation.

 

Is there a VVC specific clutch cable perhaps?

 

Steve.

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

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I went through this 18 months ago (before giving up - for different reasons - underbonnet/chassis-rail clearance on a race chassis).

 

Anyway, CC told me at the time that TADTS and that there *wasn't* a specific cable.

 

What you can try (as a temporary solution - and assuming that the cable will die before the plenum) is to wrap a couple of zip-tiles around the cable (connected to nothing) just where the cable touches the plenum - this will protect it for a while and the plastic should be less abrasive than the metal coil of the outer cable jacket...

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7's Equipe™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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I just picked up a clutch cable from Redline that's reportedly a VVC one. It lacks the large nuts at the pedal box end and this is supposed to give more clearance. Haven't fitted it yet.

 

There is also a bespoke chassis brace that replaces the one under the plennum. It's got a dimple in it to give clearance to the plennum. I'm fitting that this weekend.

 

C7 CDW

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David,

 

Would you be able to supply any pictures of your installation with the new bits. Part Numbers?

 

Grubbster, Yes indeed we must. If you want a blat over here I'm doing a tank swap for Keith H on Sat.16th. All day in the garage I expect.

 

Steve.

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

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There is also a bespoke chassis brace that replaces the one under the plennum. It's got a dimple in it to give clearance to the plennum. I'm fitting that this weekend.

 

That was the killer-blow for me. My race-chassis doesn't have removable braces - so I couldn't lower the engine enough to get it under the bonnet - whilst clearing the brace at the same time...

 

Shame - I spent a lot of time fettling the plenum here.

 

It's still for sale if:

i) You can wait an indeterminate length of time until I travel the 300 miles to where it is located.

ii) You don't mind it looking somewhat less shiny than in the pics - it's been sitting in a dampish cellar for over a year - just cosmetic corrosion - nothing of issue.

 

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7's Equipe™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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  • Support Team

I had a similar problem with by Bernard Scouse airbox. The solution for me was to put 3 washers under the driver's side engine mount to raise the engine a little on that side. This might work for you although by the sounds of Myles' problems it is then possible the plenum will foul the bonnet.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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I think what others have done if you search the other threads is mill a few mm off the mating surface on the top chamber. A small amount (.5mm) can also be won by using a thin smear of gasket goo between the mating surfaces rather than the gasket, and another mm or so can be won by filing off the top highest edge of the plennum chamber.

 

You can also ease the bonnet a little (ie bend it) to give a bit more clearance but you have to be very careful how you do it so it doesn't show. I stretched mine using a flat piece of softwood but marked the bonnet in one spot by using a too narrow piece at first. A piece of floor boarding about 6 inches wide worked a treat leaving no marks, but the initial damage was already done unfortunately.

 

I assume you know about the VVC RH engine mount available form Caterham? It drops the engine a large amount to clear the bonnet but then you do need the dimpled cross brace. If yours is the race chassis so you can't replace the brace, it's possible to win a bit of clearance by shaving a couple of mm off the exisitng RH engine mount, but you would have to be careful not to weaken the weld at that point.

 

C7 CDW

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Not sure I want the hassle of going hydraulic John.

 

I think what I really need is a cable with a much shorter ferrule at the pedal box end. I think it's this that is limiting the flex in the cable and means I can't easily secure it away from the inlet.

 

The "VVC Clutch Cable" from Redline that DavidW mentioned may well be the thing I need. David, would you be able to supply a photo of the pedal end of the cable (even before installation)?

 

Steve.

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear

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I have a dry sumped VVC in mine and hit the same problem. Our solution was to cut about 1cm off the threaded brass bit of the clutch cable (don't cut the cable!) so the curve is much gentler past the plenum.

 

 

Project BUMBLEBEE lives on!

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