Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 30, 2006 Support Team Share Posted August 30, 2006 Whilst on a high speed run back from Cornwall the biting point of my clutch changed. At the start of the journey the clutch would bite near the top of the pedal travel as it always has done. After a very fast steady speed 6th gear section, the bite point has moved to lower down the pedal travel - i.e. I have to press the pedal further to get the clutch to release. I thought it might have been that the cable adjusters had loosened off and that might still be the case, but is there anything else which would cause this? What other things might I check? Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Shaun Does it have the Caterham bellhousing tank as the clutch forks are known to fail. This happened on Rich Anderson's car and the only way to fix is engine out ☹️ I suggest you check the free play in the cable and check the movement of the fork whilst someone else works the pedal. Mark D Comp Sec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 OK, mine's an xflow, but the cable had stretched by nearly an inch before it went bang, as shown by the inner sleeving at the pedal end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andymal Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Shaun I experienced a moving biting point for several months. It turned out to be the clutch cable that was frayed and would snag inside the sleeve. I recommend you take the cable off and test it. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 Shaun, Most likely the adjuster have moved, I doubt you want to take the Engine out again Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 30, 2006 Author Support Team Share Posted August 30, 2006 Mark D - I will check this but I have the latest version of the dry sump fork which is made from girders so hopefully won't be that. Alex - yes could be cable stretch - I'll order a new one just in case it's about to go. Andy - will check the cable. Mark C - you're not wrong there 😬. I'll play with the adjustment. Just in case I'm being a numpty (not unheard of) which way should I adjust it to raise the biting point? Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 ah hum... I think it is the engine trying to tell you it wants to be driven by somone with a longer inside leg.... at great pain and detriment to myself I might be able to assist on that front... 😬 😬 Engine swap... one very reliable 1.8 x-power engine for a tempremental 1.9K??? 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 30, 2006 Author Support Team Share Posted August 30, 2006 Neil - next you'll be telling me I have too many gears and you'd reluctantly exchange your 5 for my 6 . Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil.cavanagh Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 nah... I like my 5!! 😬 😬 *thumbup* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Dear Mr Numpty, The clue is in your phrase "the cable adjusters had loosened off" - to raise the bite point back to where it should be you have to reverse the process and tighten them Exactly what you describe happened to me on the run from the Schlumpf Museum to Lake Constance. A quick twiddle until the bite point felt right (without needing to start the engine, etc.) and it's been fine since. Fatalism means never having to wonder if it's safe to overtake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 I'd put my money on the adjuster lock-nuts loosening off and vibrating their way down the shaft of the cable - as others have said. If you like your bite-point near the top (i.e. very little pedal movement needed), it is probably worth ensuring that your clutch-stop comes into play - otherwise you will tend to be over extending the cable/clutch. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7's Equipe™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnonut Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 I will check this but I have the latest version of the dry sump fork which is made from girders so hopefully won't be that. Thats what mine was but it still managed to fail. Leaving me stranded in Spain ☹️ W.Nut . Rosso Superlight no.087 (no longer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 if the pedal position *hasnt* moved but the biting point on the stroke has changed then I dont think it will be the nut adjusters . the nut adjusters only swing the position of the pedal as I recall , they dont influence the biting point ?. if the biting point is getting further down the stroke then it sounds like the clutch arm is bending or there is a probelm with the clutch itself ☹️ I have managed to bend a "girder" type clutch arm and I've seen one other crack ☹️ if you need any more negative views please drop me a mail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 31, 2006 Author Support Team Share Posted August 31, 2006 The pedal position does seem to have moved - i.e. it is now lower than the brake pedal which previously it was more or less level with. This gives me hope that it is just the adjustment or a stretched cable. Dave YHM. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 ahh that does sound like the adjuster nuts then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Myles said; it is probably worth ensuring that your clutch-stop comes into play - otherwise you will tend to be over extending the cable/clutchI can't remember where your clutch stop was from the last time you showed me at Hoy's and I really must fit one, that was what probably killed my cable. Did you put in the bulkhead end of the pedal box or the footwell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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