Andy Best Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Went out for a blat today got 3 miles and it died ☹️. Taking it easy warming the car up then I had a total loss of power. The car will crank but won't start, the pump primes the ecu and sensors all come into life. All electrics seem fine, I have checked all the fuses and relays and all are OK, so what should I check next? btw the car has not run that well since LeMans it was hesitating when putting my foot down between 2-3000 rpm don't know if this is connected and now whatever was fault has finally died. Any help pointers/tests I should carry gratefully received. Was hoping to go to Curborough next weekend but need to get the car going first! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Check the crank position sensor (under the injection side - bolts just in front of the flywheel). If this breaks or if the wires are damaged, the ECU can't tell if the engine is turning over and it will not be allowed to run. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R400 Velocity R Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Also check the fuses, on one occasion on a mates 7 the passenger had somehow dislogged a fuse (that was on a Le-Mans run) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted August 21, 2006 Leadership Team Share Posted August 21, 2006 And the relays than can work there way loose Andy - make sure you check for a spark and for fuelling, after that it's how it's set up and whether anything has slipped/faulted/broke etc. Check also you have good connections on the LT side of the ignition system? Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted August 21, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted August 21, 2006 Andy Sorry to hear you are having a problem. Can't think of any things not already suggested, but if you need to borrow any bits off my car, just let me know. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Srcarter Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Andy If you have total loss of power, befor you go any further, check for cam/belt failure . good luck, Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted August 21, 2006 Author Share Posted August 21, 2006 Thanks I will check all tonight, hope it's not the cam belt its only done 4500 since it was replaced! Paul, May be giving you a call later thanks. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Crank position sensor is my guess. Had the same problem when mine fell out during a trackday. Once I found the problem it was solved in a minute as the bolt was still sat between the sensor and the block. No how lucky was that 😬. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted August 23, 2006 Author Share Posted August 23, 2006 Thanks for your replies I've now checked the following The fuses and relays - all OK Inertia switch is not tripped The engine is fuelling - pump priming & spark plugs damp with fuel Crank sensor in place connected and looks OK - I don't know how to test! The spark plugs are not sparking The primary of the coil is getting 12v All remaining wires look sound no obvious breaks or trapping etc All sensors are clean and dry and connected Second ECU (emerald) gives same results What and how can I now check and how My guess is it is something that controls the spark generation or the coil, I don't know how to test the coil and I don't know what controls the spark on these electronic ignition cars. The setup is a EU2 1600ss K with Rover Plenum, distributor, single coil, mems ecu and mfu. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Have you tried resetting the immobiliser? 4 or 5 presses on the same button on the fob should do it. Doesn't matter which button. You should hear a click or three when it resets. Steve. Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Is the coil getting 12v - 0v - 12v as you crank the engine? (Test with a multimeter or a bulb with wires soldered on.) This works with a contact breaker system so I assume it's the same for EU2 I think the Emerald has an LED that lights when it thinks the engine is turning over - that tests your CPS. Take the distributor cap off - is the rotor arm going round (or has your cam belt snapped ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted August 23, 2006 Author Share Posted August 23, 2006 Thanks Steve, Yes should have added that I have reset the immobiliser, also disconnected the battery for an hour and removed the plipper battery at the same time. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Is there anyone close to hand that you could swop ignition bits with to eliminate them being faulty? ... I'm sure you have check it but the H.T. lead hasn't crept out from the coil? JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Dixon Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Some time aog I had exactly the same problem. It was the crank sensor. Disconnect the sensor and remove it, its held in by one bolt. In the centre of the sensor there is ( or should be) a carbon pole which should be about half inch long This reads the teeeth on the flywheel. Mine had worn down to less than a centimetre and when the flywheel rotated the sensor could not read the revolutions. New sensor fixed it straight away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Also worth checking that you still have the carbon contact in the midle of your distributor cap. If this has broken down, it is unlikely to spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Best Posted August 23, 2006 Author Share Posted August 23, 2006 Thanks everyone - looks like a dud coil so it's off to get another an dhope it works! Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Look at www.eliseparts.com, as they seem quite cheap. A stupid man's report of what a clever man says can never be accurate, because he unconsciously translates what he hears into something he can understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonbell Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 If its an emerald ecu make sure the battery voltage is high enough. If it drops too low the ecu won`t fir the injectors and coils..........hence you get cranking, fuel pump etc but it won`t start. Last tiome it happened us was when we swapped a mems over to emerald, started fine on the memes, unplugged mems, connected emerald and it wouldn`t start.........a quick boost of the battery and away it went. Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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