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Pagid/Alcon question


caterhamnut

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I would have thought if you asked for a pad for a particular caliper it puts the emphasis on them to give you the right pad.

 

Just speaking as someone who incorrectly filled out a code number recently. *eek* 🙆🏻

 

FWIW they may/should know the caliper as Alcon sell it to anyone with the mounting lugs unmachined. James simply gets a batch machined correctly.

 

N

 

PS good news about them being able to change the backing plate , I have been looking at the Willwood calipers but not exited at the thought of having to use willwoods (own brand) pads.

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Aggessive 🤔 *confused*

 

I was simply suggesting that somtimes trying to get a code number can be counter productive as they can be easily misread and are liable to change for many reasons

If you simply ask for a product in plain language there is often less scope for misunderstanding.

 

Infact when I used PB to buy my pads last month there was a mix-up with the pads being quoted for but because the conversation was in plain english the confusion was easily picked up, where I may not have noticed on digit difference in a code number, and got the right pads - every one happy *wink*

 

Nick *wink*

 

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John Freeth (Frith???) at Monmouth Performance Braking also recommends 15s on the front by the way - he frequently gets a mention when Pagids are the subject of conversation.

 

They are fecking noisy (in many ways) in my HiSpec Ultralite 4's, but I think that's mainly down to the clappers.

 

Project Scope-Creep is live...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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They are fecking noisy (in many ways) in my HiSpec Ultralite 4's, but I think that's mainly down to the clappers.
Noisy..............not in my car, however the passenger usually gives a sharp intake of breathe as we stop in just the right place at the junction 😬

 

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*thumbup* - yep, just ordered some RS15's from Monmouth - said the same - just clean them well.

Excellent friendly advice (John F wasn't there but his collegue was equally helpful) - should arrive tomorrow *thumbup* 😬

I currently have the greenstuff pads that came with the J Whiting Alcon brakes - I think I need to change them now - was loath to do so when they were new - thought I would at least build up a knowledge of them. Now I want to stop!

Interested in Alex W's comments though - these have done many thousands of miles, and quite a few track days, and not even half worn, which might confirm that the compounds do indeed change from time to time...?

I have left the rears for now - we currently have some 1177's in the rears which were lying around at rebuild time - obviously these are quite aggressive and have been locking up first, but I thought I would see how they perform in conjunction with the RS15's before changing them (maybe to RS14's) - not least because I don't have any bias adjustment (yet *smile*) - thanks for the help guys!

 

www.mycaterham.com

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96,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car

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Angus - one thing to note with the RS-15's is the bedding in process, which is something like brake from 90mph->30mph 3 times in rapid succession. Obviously give them a few test runs first to make sure your setup isn't massively unbalanced (or leaking) for any reason before you go for the banzai run. I spent about half an hour just driving around getting loads of heat into them. They did squeak horribly for a short while (see Myles post), but they got over it within about an hour of hard use and now they don't squeak at all, even without the shims.

 

stephen

 

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recently put pagids in the front

 

any feedback on the comment (I was told by someone I have some respect for!) ...

'be very careful with pagid front and back as the balance of the braking can be unsettled, particularly locking the rears..

only use pagid front and rear if you also have a brake balance bar' 🤔

 

A10ROX:OK, its an R500 without the magnesium bits sump etc and only 205bhp!

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What do these pads cost and how do they compare to the green stuff ones? My thoughts on green stuff is that they;'re fine when on track days running hot but once cool they don't have much bite and can glaze over quickly. Does anyone else find the same?

 

 

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For the Alcon brakes I have the cost was about £115 for the front axle.

The potential for rears locking is why I have not (yet!) gone for the RS14s at the rear, as I don't have a bias valve.

I think that comment is pretty accurate from what I know/have heard A10...

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

96,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car

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BB - I'll let you know how they compare! My greenstuff have been fine, but just a bit 'soft' and lacking in initial bite. It will be easier to compare once pagids are fitted, as praise for these tends to be universal.

 

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

Videos

here

96,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car

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Common problem with the std Caterham brakes is the rearward balance(I dont know how Caterham have gotten away with it after all these years using the sierra rear calipers). If you then install pads with greater "bite" then you will still have this problem.

 

The trick is to balance the brake distribution front / rear with either different pads - as Angus is doing or fit a brake reduction valve to the rear circuit or install uprated front calipers ( and rear if you can) which will alter he balance and alow you to run a combination such as RS15 front and RS14 rear as I do with with uprated Caterham/ AP "race" brakes all round .

 

*smile*

 

 

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On a track day last weekend the balance of mine felt ok with RS-15 on the front and something rather less ritzy (I suspect Mintex pads) on the rear, standard calipers all round. I certainly don't want any more rear bias, so I think i'll leave the RS14 rears in the box for the time being...

 

By the way; what's involved with fitting a bias valve? I mean, how much replumbing of the brake lines is involved. Despite having an ex-race car, mine curiously doesn't have a bias valve.

 

 

stephen

 

 

 

Edited by - stephen grant on 18 Aug 2006 08:58:59

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