Molecular--Bob Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I need to release the clutch on my car as it has welded itself while it has been stood. Any suggestions that do not involve driving it, as the available space before impact is very small. The car is on axle stands at the moment, but i guess i need to put them under the Tube rather than the chassis if i am going to allow the wheels to turn. Where is best on the tube for this? Once the clutch is freed off i can book an mot and have a drive, Which brings me to my next question. What should i expect of A Pagid rs15/rs14 brake set up, given that i have the original 1991 Goodyear tyres on it at the moment. Do they have progressive bite or are they likely to grab. I am a little nervous about this set up given the expected lack of grip, and am surprised that the guy i bought it off had these installed. I do intend to get a better tyre set up once i am MOTed, probably toyo 888, but do want to survive my trip to the mot station. Should i think about fitting standard pads, which came with the car, until i have the better tyres fitted? Thanks in advance Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted July 24, 2006 Support Team Share Posted July 24, 2006 I've got RS15s on the front of mine and they are not particularly "grabby" so I don't think you'll have a problem (I haven't got round to putting the RS14s on the back yet). Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Ian, drop car of stands (not the JC way). push into road. warm engine. switch off, engage gear and start car. drive down road as fast as you can whilst pumping the clutch. The plate should free off. It's the metal filings in the friction material rusted to the flywheel. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingnonut Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 *arrowup*Above plus foot on clutch stamp on brake (making sure there is nothing behind you ) W.Nut . Rosso Superlight no.087 (no longer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 Hi Norm. Thats the problem. The push out is really awkward, might have to tow it up the hill. SO if i can free it without driving that would be preferable. Been told to get every thing good and hot before trying it. Is this a mechanically sympathetic process? Or should i expect a loud bang when it frees up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gaines Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Take off the starter motor and run a hot air gun on the flywheel for 15 minutes, job done. Regards John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Heesom Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I usually put the axle (live axle car) on axle stands, wedge the clutch pedal down, put the car in gear, start it up, and leave it running until it is up to temperature. This year it freed itself off doing this. If this doesn't work, try the same thing, but then apply the brakes. This has always worked on mine in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I agree with Martyn, even better to help is spay some brake clean on the clutch trough the release fork hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andymal Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Ian The mechanically sympathetic way is to put the rear end safely on axle stands, find something long enough to wedge the clutch pedal down, take the hand brake off and then start her in gear. Normally 2nd or 3rd is good. At this stage one of the rear wheels should be spinning. Just leave her in this state for 20 to 40 minutes (increase the revs a bit if you want to speed up the heat build up). When the engine and box get warm enough the clutch will release. It is easy to know when the clutch has released because neither rear wheel is spinning. This process is guaranteed - i've done it around 20 times on a Lotus and several 7 owners have followed the recommendation and succeeded. The beauty of it is that there is no stress of sudden jolts through the transmission. Best of luck Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Molecular--Bob Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 Thanks all. As the car is in the air at the moment any way i will try and free it off on the stands, hopefully without having to use the brakes, if this fails then Normans drive it like you stole it method will be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesheep Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I know this is an old post, but just in case it helps someone. If the clutch fails to release after driving around, you could try this: On my live axle crossflow, on the lower driver side of the bell housing there is an access point to the flywheel/clutch. There is a rubber gaiter where the clutch cable goes in, and this gaiter can be removed, giving you access to a small window on the clutch. There are small access points in it. Put the car in gear (engine off!) and as you rotate the wheels you can gently lever the clutch away from the flywheel. It proved very easy to do and seems easier than running the car on axle stands etc. -------------------------------------------------------- Caterham7Junkie.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now