SouthernBanana Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I have a caterham 6sp gearbox, which following a refresh by a well known g/box specialist is now getting extremely hot - to the point that I have to hold my leg away from the gearbox tunnel. This happens even adfer 3-4 miles of 'spirited' road driving, never mind track style full power shifts. Edited to say, that after checking the gearbox oil levels, it hardly takes any more oil. I am not using reline MTL, as this is no longer recommened by the specialist that I am using. The box is due to go back to the gearbox guys to see if they can find out what's wrong. I am very pleased with their service levels, just curious as to what people think may be the problem? Whilst on the power the box is slightly noisy (after rebuild), however, on the over run, it sounds like a bag of spanners! The car is a dry sumped k series, and following box and engine re installation there is a slight oil leak from somewhere that I can't find the source of. Any likely culprits? This is finding its way down the side of the gearbox tunnel , down the side, then through into the drivers footwell. I think the oil is engine oil rather than gearbox oil, however, the following have been checked: - gearbox sppedo drive plugged when box was rebuilt - dry sump pan brand new and seal to block OK Are there any obvious breather hoses, or seals that could go, following a rebuild? Or has anyone else had similar problems. Any help is much appreciated, as following 2 trips to the ring, the car has let me down twice.... In the interests of fairness, I don't want to name the company involved until I have a resolution one way or another! thanks Edited by - SouthernBanana on 23 Jul 2006 13:54:08 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted July 24, 2006 Support Team Share Posted July 24, 2006 Can't help with the gearbox issue although I would be surprised if it was the gearbox generating the heat in the tunnel. In this hot weather, the tunnel can get extremely hot from the engine, especially when moving slowly (e.g. in traffic). With the dry sump system there are loads of potential leak points. Check all the hoses and the fittings they attach to. I found that the connector at the front of the sump came a little loose shortly after the last time I refitted the engine - the allen bolts needed tightening. Also the blue plate on the bottom of the bellhousing can leak, the sump plug can leak (especially if no washer used as on the dry sump). Check the bolts where the conning tower bolts to the top of the bell housing and also check the top of the conning tower. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWoodham Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 at Silverstone last week my transmission tunnel was too hot to hold your leg against, major prob on long right handers like Woodcote! Don't know if this was gearbox temp issue or just heat from the engine. I suspect the latter. engine heat does get pretty large, passenger footwell suffers as well. Martin Roadsports B with upgradeitis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I am not using reline MTL, as this is no longer recommened by the specialist that I am using Who are you using? What are they recommending instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 If it's the person I think it is, he regards Redline MTL as the 'devils work' 😬 Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 I think I can guess too... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernBanana Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 thanks for the tips guys. I don't want to name the supplier until they have had a chance to potentially rectify the problem. I hope this makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Out of interest, Brian Hill says that Castrol is too acidic and he showed me the evidence under a magnifying glass. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Hmm interesting as you'll never guess what BGH have just filled my gearbox up with when they put it back in... Castrol.. and I'm fairly sure that's ll they sell. As for hot tunnels yup I can confirm mines the same, it's baking in this kind of weather always has been and always will be. Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Fit some sort of localised protection to the tunnel areas where your flesh is likely to contact, and relish the joy of driving a true British classic car 😬 1982. 5 speed, clamshells. B.R.G / Ali. The True Colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthernBanana Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 Nigel Hi. I only use the car on track (i.e. 0 road miles), and am only concerned with the performance - nothing else! From a mechanical perspective, excessive heat generation is a bad thing. Insulating something merely masks/hides the symptoms.I would prefer to address these at source to ensure everything is as it should be mechanically!I'm not particularly bothered about the 'britishness' of it! Am thinking of going back to a 911RS or GT3 if I continue having problems with the bl00dy thing!! cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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