Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 I just took the SV K1600 out for a visit to the dentist and noticed it seemed to be running very rough. I thought it was because it was almost out of petrol initially so put about 8 litres in from a jerrycan, but in fact the problem continued. It seems to be under 3500rpm, it is hesitant, stutters, and isn't giving full power or pulling properly, and the throttle control is very jerky and non linear. After coming out of the dentist I tried the thing I've heard about....with the ignition on, press the throttle pedal down about 8 times and this supposedly 'resets' the ECU?????? Didn't seem to make any great difference unfortunately. 🙆🏻 Any ideas? I'm supposed to be using the car to get to LeMans tomorrow. NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 The IACV reset is power on but dont start, press the accelerator fully 5 times, power off, then power on and start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 If that does not owrk, check the condition of the spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Thanks, just did this and will test it on the road and put some petrol in when it stops raining. Am I right in thinking the ecu distinguishes between 95 and 98 octane unleaded? I normally use 98 but I had to put a lot of 95 in on return trip from Switzerland, but the car ran faultlessly the whole trip, with 400miles plus of mostly motorways between Geneva and home. Then, first time out of the barn since the return, and it has this odd problem! NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 The engine has no knock sensor, so unless it has been mapped on 98 fuel, you are wasting your time. Good excuse for an Emerald though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Cagey, The odd thing is, it's fine over about 3800rpm! Pulls fine, no missing, seems like normal...it's just gone weird under 3800 or 3500.....try pulling from say 2000 in 3rd, it just won't go! Spluttering, jerky power delivery, not getting the power or revs until I change down and boot it, then ok over 4000rpm. It was a real fun experience just now, coming back from the dentist with a head full of lignocaine, no tongue, all lopsided, in pouring rain with no roof.....WHY OH WHY etc. I was having to drop a cog, boot it from 4000, wherapon it would immediately hit water and aquaplane.....great! Cagey, it's a standard K1600 not Roadsport, so are you saying I should use 95 all the time? NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Edited by - Unclefester on 6 Jul 2006 17:35:54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Cagey, What's an Emerald? Some sort of chip? In fact I'm getting a 210bhp motor for it, but it would be nice to sort this out or I'll have to take Twinkerbelle the 25 year old TC to LeMans tomorrow.... *eek* NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 An Emerald M3DK is a programmable ECU for the K series. On all 1600K, i would use 95 unless you have a programmable ECU and have had the car maped on 98. Sounds ignition related, as it is breaking down under load. Checkcondition of the plugs etc. as mentioned before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 OK, I should change the plugs anyway, no idea how old they are. So, next question, what plugs to go for? I have no K series handbook apart from the BMW K series for the Grinnall which isn't a lot of help ☹️ NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 NGK BCPR7E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Cagey, How would I know if the ECU is progammable? Where is it and what should I look for? Remember, I'm used to Webers and not this new fangled electronic stuff.....fortunately I've never had this sort of thing with the Integrale, or my normal everyday transport, a Suby Outback. NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Don't forget to check the state of the dizzy cap and rotor arm, as you may have tracking occuring in the dizzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 If you have the standard ECU, it is not. Will have a rover part number if standard. The Emerald has a nice sticker on it, and is silver and shiney! Look here for the emerald Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 I will go and have a butchers now with the barn door shut....check for blue sparks....doubt if I'll notice the monoxide wot with all this lignocaine floating around the tubes...... NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Cagey....someone seems to have nicked the distributor! Actually, I don't believe such things have been used for about 30 years have they? Were you pulling my leg? I think they use a Hall effect sensor to trip the electronic ignition.....no need for distributors any more! I can't see anything vaguely resembling a distributor or even a coil, and the plug caps are a bit complicated looking and I couldn't get them off, didn't want to force them with a screwdriver......and you can only see two, the others are invisible under some sort of supression things. All very odd. *confused* I didn't see any sparking from the leads or caps though. Looks like a trip to the ex Rover garage in Limoges is called for...what a 🙆🏻mer. NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Edited by - Unclefester on 6 Jul 2006 18:26:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 My EU2 1.6K has a distributor. That is all it does. No points etc. operated by a cam. Is on the end of the head, driven by a camshaft. The leads come off, just be gentle. You may have an EU3 with a wasted spark system? The coil pack will be on the side of the engine below the inlet plenum. I picked up a set of plugs from my local motor factors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 It would appear your coils are under the spark plug cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Coils under spark plug cover? Could be! There are two flat oblong things with leads coming out, I thought they were suppression things. I really must get a Haynes manual.....unlike CERTAIN PEOPLE with blue cars (From the Swiss meet) "My toolkit is an Armani suit and an Amex gold card......" I prefer to know what the hell is going on under the bonnet! Plus I find Hugo Boss SO much nicer than Armani, I mean, Armani....just a bit common, no? NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Edited by - Unclefester on 6 Jul 2006 19:07:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Cagey, my engine seems to date from Feb 2002...... NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 It's an EU3 then. Make sure the leads and connections are in good condition. Change the plugs, and if that does not work, it could be the coil packs going ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 Oh dear! So to get at the plugs you need to remove the coils, or I'm a turkey. I guess I'd better get the old crowbar out as I wasn't able to remove even one plug cap by "Normal Means"......I'm beginning to wonder if the problem os related to the fact I've just changed the front mudguards? Maybe it doesn't like its new ones? They aren't even KLAMS!!!!!! NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 No idea. I have an EU2. Use a pair of pliers on the cap, but make sure you don't pull the lead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted July 6, 2006 Author Share Posted July 6, 2006 So....couldn't it be some sort of fuel injection problem? It's like having the first jet blocked on a carburetted engine.....is it possible to have a primart throttle problem with FI which clears on full opening? I will change the plugs, but I reckon a Rover diagnostic check might tell if it's FI related or definitely ignition. It's very strange that it started just like that, the oly thing I thought might be responsible was the very low fuel level, but it has filters, and it didn't actually run dry..... NICE PLATE!!! 😬 😬here *eek* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 If it was a fuel injection problem, as in a blocked nozzle, it would show up all the time, wouldn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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