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Confusing rev limit and Pace dry sump UPDATED -now not running!


Kevsta

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Firstly I thought I'd let you all know that after my belt snapped on my Pace dry sump instal it is all fixed now (seems I drove for a few minutes with it and it buggered big end bearings 2 and 3). Thanks to oily for his help on this I have now rebuilt the engine and it is running well now. It seems that my initial thoughts of the tension of the belt was wrong, I felt it was too loose and shimmed the pump out to add tension. This was too much for it and once the enigne was up to temp the block would expand and inevitably snapped the belt. Pace (Neil) have been very helpful with me and have gone beyond their call to help me and at no cost. Thankfully it is all sorted now and I can move on to just enjoying the car!

 

Onto this weekend and only two days after rebuilding the engine I had a track day (bruntingthorpe). I only did about 150 miles beofre hand and took it easy to bed bearings in so hadn't given it beans yet. On track when I evetually did I got to 5,500rpm and the rev limiter kicked in (1800 VVC with standard ECU). Came in and checked everything (wasn't convinced it was rev limiter) went back out and it did it again, two more times. I then did the rest of the day without going past about 5,200 and short shifted my way round (she still did very well considering!).

 

So does anyone have any idea why the ECU is cutting in with the rev limiter? *confused* All I can think of is that the temp sender for the VVC mechs is not working as so it is trying to protect itself...but I am only guessing?

 

Did have a cracking day...reminded me why I bought the car and spend so much time on her! The fiance had a few drives too, big smiles on her face 😬 😬 😬 😬

 

Edited by - Kevsta on 29 Jun 2006 17:16:11

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It could also be the cam position sensor or the VVC mechanism.

 

At least I've read this somewhere in the Rover documentation.

 

Suppose Oily will know all about this.

 

/regin

 

Growing old is mandatory - Growing up is optional

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Kev

 

Just had a thought *idea*. A few years ago I had a duff set of plugs which started misfiring at 6000 rpm, once changed everything was fine. Another thing to check is that your plug leads are in good order & they're well connected to the coil & plugs.

 

Engines going fine & you're welcome to a ride anytime.

 

Mick

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So the saga continues...really annoying me now...was fiddling in the garage the other night, checked all the leads and plugs from end to end on the VVC mechs etc (everything around the manifold basically) to the ECU. All wires carrying current (checked by unplugging and putting meter at either end).

 

Left it for the night, but just now I had to get engine crane out to give back to a friend, got car out (drove) no problem, did what I had to do, started her back up and it ran on three cylinders, limped it back into garage quick in case it died. Turned off, had a look at it and scratched my head, started up again and now felt (sounded) like it was running on two cylinders (or the timing belt had jumped). Turned off and checked both belts (VVC remember). All fine, checked timing at 90 BTDC etc, checked cam lobes tuirned ok (cam vover off), checked plugs, leads etc, all fine. Put back together and now won't start at all (think it has flooded...there's a saying you haven't heard for ages). Have thrown dust sheet back over it and walked off in a strop!

 

So, are these problems connected? One thing I think that I have disturbed both during the rebuild and checking the wires is the ECU! Bet it's that! Did try moving wires away from CPS but to no avail. Leads have only done 2000 miles, same for plugs. What next? Any suggestions? Anyone in the bucks area with a VVC ecu 5AS and blipper I could plug in and try out?

 

ARGHH!!!!! ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ *confused* *confused* *confused* *mad* *mad* *mad*

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Sounds like coils to me.

 

Quick search will throw up the part numbers - If you call Roverlink they will do the coil packs and leads separately.

 

Tell them you are a club member and they will give you a variable discount dependant upon their margin on the parts.

 

 

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*idea* check tthe main power feed to ECU there is a know problem on the VVC ecu's with tthe main power feed from car a spade terminal connector if i remember, it is prone to bad crimp connections. Disconnect it and pull both connectors hard to confirm integrity. A number have failed giving the symptoms you describe.
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Thanks for these guys, will check power to ECU first, then go down the coil pack route. Typical that just as I get it running again it messes around again!

 

Anyone in the bucks area with similar car able to let me swap bits to confirm if the ECU power is ok (i.e. ecu and 5as swap, coil pack swap). That way I won't be buying bits and replacing that are in fact functioning ok!

 

Cheers

 

Kev

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