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Ticking top end?? K Series


Airhog

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Yep, following from my rear wheel bearing adventures I have another teaser.

 

Have noticed a ticking from the top end of my 1.6K (supersport) Sure its got worse recently, but maybe i'm just getting paranoid? Have been using it a lot recently and just done a 1700mile trip, so is something wrong *confused* Is there something that can slip out of adjustment, or wear???

 

I know diagnosis through my lame description is difficult, but any ideas what it might be would be good. Failing that i'll take it somewhere for someone to have a look.

 

Cheers

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Cheers Gareth

 

Puts my mind at rest a bit, but cant help but think it sounds more mechanical *confused* Valve train like? But you are possibly right, I must have super hearing when it comes to my pride and joy 😬

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Why do I have the horrible feeling its the latter?? *eek* Anyone have a reccomendation for someone sensible to have a look at it in the North Oxfordshire area?

 

Hopefully it's nothing (my imagination) but guess that early investigation means smaller bills??

 

Bit worried really, have always looked after it, driven it hard yes, but only once temps are up and oil pressure settled. Did an MSE Academy day last month, but again nothing to make me think I could of caused any damage. Only done about 12k so hopefully will be alright.

 

Cheers

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If you are still on hydraulic tappets... are you sure it not one of those being a little slow to fill?

 

If it is, then its not brain surgery to service, just lots of 8m bolts to undo.

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

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Std engine, so I understand hydraulic tappets. Would make sense if it was something like that. Car is fine on power (well enough to get me into trouble 😬) and there are no really nasty grumbles.

 

What do I need to do to service/check them? Again sorry for the total lack of having a clue, but would like to have a look to see if I can identify the noise and hopefully stop it.

 

Cheers

 

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If you are unable to identify the noise yourself, ask someone in the know if the sound is tappets.

 

If it is tappets, then look up the subject in your Haynes manual, where it should be explained. There may even be some helpful pics in DVA web site, albeit that they will be leading you on to solid tappet modification.

 

JH

Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine

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Tappets on mine got noisy after car did its first couple of track days. Most noticeable when the engine was hot,

and then idling.

Easiest way to get the problem was on starting the engine 5 minutes after a good blat, when I guess the oil was thin

and could leak out. It would clear after a few minutes. Can also get it for a few seconds on cold start if the car hasn't

been used for a while. Fixed by undoing LOTS of 8 mm bolts, getting them apart with a sharp tap as per Oilys advice,

and then soaking them in solvent. Seems to have fixed it...

While you are at it, take the well trod upgrade path of fitting verniers 😬

Hope thats all it is for you. Another K owner would probably be able to recognise the noise.

I remember searching techtalk and seeing you could also get tapping from a loose cam cover. Check this first!

Good luck!

AB

 

 

Edited by - Alan Bowler on 21 Jun 2006 21:49:44

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The injectors do tick as other have said. Tappets are a lot noisier - mine have only made a noise once after a longish (several weeks) layoff over winter when the engine had not been started and the oil had drained from them.

 

The noise was horrible, but disappeared once the engine was warm.

 

See my similar thread here *thumbup*

 

Guy

 

See some pictures of the build here. 9000 miles completed!

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Hi all,

 

I have had a similar "ticking" from my 1.8 SS, which I seem to have narrowed down to the hydraulic tappets. Embarrasingly 😳 I found out that (not unsurprisingly) the noise got worse - louder, sounding like a sewing machine, as the oil level in the engine fell. i.e. I had failed to notice that I needed to top it up. *mad* My only defence is that the level is devilishly difficult to see on the metal dipstick! However, once the oil level was returned to Max, the ticking disappeared and all was well with the world once more.

 

In fact this has turned into a blessing in disguise, since I now knew what the noise was and when I heard it last Wednesday, on a business trip from home to Swansea, I just knew I had to stop & check things out - (I had topped up the oil before I left )

 

Luckily I pulled over into a Shell Garage. Thought I'd fill up with Optimax whilst I was there 😬; but no, they had run out *eek*! Oh well I pulled the car back the unleaded pump & there on the forecourt where the engine had been was a rather large pool of oil. Oh Bother *confused*

 

Anyway I looked under the car & could see that there was obviously oil dripping from a round shaped thingie in front of the oil filter (sorry for the techie terminology) - but start up the engine & it turned into a positive stream.

 

So on the blower to Brittannia Rescue (as you will gather I am not the greatest mechanic & had no tools with me - I will have next time!).

 

Luckily they were able to fix it by tightening up a bolt on the "thingie" - something to do with an oil valve I think which was loose. The mechanic thought I must have hit something which had struck the bolt - there was also a large dent in the oil filter.

 

However, I had to fill up with oil - it took 4 litres so I reckon it was sooooo lucky that I stopped when I did *thumbup*

 

And here's the question! Previously the car had only ever (to my knowledge) been filled with Comma Syner G but of course Shell don't have that so I had to fill it up with Shell Helix Ultra. The received wisdom seems to be that you should use the same oil all the time, so I just wondered whether I should now top up with Shell or just go back to topping up with Comma. At the next service I shall probably go back to Comma anyway.

 

So the the moral of my story (I think) is that Airhog - you might just want to check that your oil levels are OK *biggrin*.

 

So far the engine does not seem to have suffered from the experience but I have certainly got a few more grey hairs!

 

Keith

 

C4TTT

 

Edited by - Keith Henson on 25 Jun 2006 08:13:49

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OK, here we go again.

Oils have a cleaning package to stop the oil from leaving contaminants around the engine and to stop it burning and VARNISHING, a layer of burnt oil stopping the lubrication of that part.

If the oil gets burnt and sticks to the hydraulic valves, they are prevented from moving up and down with the cam, the cam repeatedly hits the top of the valves and makes the ticking/tapping sound.

 

How do you help the oil to burn onto the parts and varnish them?

Easy, let your oil run to low increasing the heat build up.

Simply turn off your engine after a few laps of the track.

Over extend your service intervals.

Use a cheap or lower grade oil than recommended.

Not replacing your oil filter with an oil change.

 

How to prevent oil burn and varnishing?

Check your oil levels religiously.

After a long run or a few laps of the track, let the engine run for a few minutes so as to circulate the oil taking away the heat.

Use a quality oil with recommended changes or more regular if you wish or can afford to.

Remove the words THICK and THIN from your mind when talking about oil.

 

Do not listen to mechanics advise about oil as most are wrong but all will have an opinion.

 

AIRHOG, to solve the problem if it is the tappets, use an oil flush like WYNNS or STP, add this to the oil when up to running tempreture and fast idle for 15mins, then drain the oil, change the filter and then in with the new oil, simple.

 

X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990

ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR

 

 

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