Petrolhead Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Has anyone had difficultry with the lower shocker allen headed bolt The drivers side is soooooooooo tights that if I try I will either nap somit, damage the inner. And they are a 7/32" Allen key - WTF, I though we went metric years ago!!!!! Bloody stupid design if you ask me NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Must remember to tick the checkbox for email notifications Edited by - petrolhead on 6 Jun 2006 22:30:21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulyb Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Always a nightmare - just about everyone has problems with this - do a search for various 'hit it with a hammer', 'cut the wishbone'....etc comments 🙆🏻 Plenty of copperslip for next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 Been there, done that and written the book (copy available in the archives) 😬 The best bit of advice I can give you is buy a good quality socket type allen key BEFORE you round off the hex in the bolt head and use loads of penatrating oil. Last resort (from experience!) is to take the wishbone/shock assy out, put it in a vice and use heat. Good luck, Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 Cheers guys NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 ... and use copperslip when you refit it. Had mine out last week and would haved sworn I used a metric socket style allen key JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 6, 2006 Share Posted June 6, 2006 John - 7/32" is pretty close to 5.5mm (5.55mm actually) - you might have got it out with one of them - or if worn, a 6mm... If the bolt is seized/stiff, a 5.5mm key will swiftly bugger it though... Just to add to the warnings, my efforts to remove one already-rounded bolt resulted (after the drilling and then hacksaw methods in me having to ask Bruce at Arch if he could replace the boss... If you get it out, buy a new bolt. Bruce seemed to think that they'd changed the hardness of the bolt at some point along the way (from soft towards harder steel). Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I suggest repeated daily soakings with plus gas or such similar over a period of say 7 - 10 days before attempting to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mic Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Loctite do a freeze and release spray which may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted June 7, 2006 Author Share Posted June 7, 2006 What about heat? NE7Club Web Site R5 no 65 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Heat will ease it as will putting a socket allen key in and giving it a sharp tap (or taps if required). ed to ad that heat may/will burn the powder coating. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Edited by - nverona on 7 Jun 2006 09:44:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I removed mine by putting an axel stand under the allen key (7/32) & lowering the car. Worked a treat as they hadn't been touched in 6 years. Refitted with plenty of copper slip & plan on replacing annually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 before you go burning all the powder coat off simply try spraying on a release oil for a few days plus the thread of the bolt is on the front wishbone so you realy would make a mess of the powder coat ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Or better yet, change to the Freestyle inboard damper setup and you will never have the problem again. 😬 Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 heheheheeheheheheeeeeee Ohhh yes you will - every time you have to change the spherical joint onto the wishbone . Which should be annually or 6 K miles in my estimation - even for agood quality bearing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 Yes but that isn't the damper lower mount is it? It's the pushrod lower mount on the wisbone............smart 🙆🏻 😬 Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Redfern Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 see Nic Days tread of a few weeks ago or mail me and i'll give you his mobile number so he can give you the low down on the solution redders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Yes but that isn't the damper lower mount is it? yes exactly - the bearing that pushes the push rod that pushes the damper is through the lower damper bolt where else is the pushrod going to lever from ?? look here Edited by - Dave Jackson on 8 Jun 2006 07:41:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Pure semantics old chap. The title of the thread says 'Front Shocker lower mount' and you referred to the spherical joint on the wishbone so I was merely pointing out that using the Freestyle setup, the damper lower mount does not connect directly to the wishbone. The damper connects to the rocker arm which in turn connects to the upper pushrod spherical joint and only then via the pushrod does it connect to the lower wishbone and spherical joint. 'Twas all old bean. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 8 Jun 2006 08:13:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 😬 😬 you coming saturday ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Would love to but more than my life's worth since it is Mrs C's birthday and I'm committed to taking her and friends to an open air concert. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 😬tell here your going to find the toilet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Never heard Brent's car being called a toilet before There ain't half been some clever bastards... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 You just wait unti I see you in the next 9 days B/head, I'll give you bloody toilet ❗ Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 Ohhh noooooo your not going to Le mans are you Brent ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrolhead Posted June 9, 2006 Author Share Posted June 9, 2006 We, got it out. It took a load of heat and the very end of the bolt sheared off inside the threaded bit Then I discovered Caterham have sent the wrong bolts, too short. They have sent the ones for the std wishbobe and not the aerofoil one - nupties! So we have managed to drill and tapout the bit left and all is fine. Having to use the prigional bolts until the new ones arive next week Cheers for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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