captain chaos Posted February 3, 2002 Share Posted February 3, 2002 I've now got to the last stages of my rebuild and I am having big problems getting the brakes bled up. Used both methods (2 man and easi-bleed) and I can't seem to get decent pressure in the system. I've checked the lines where poss for leaks and all seems well. I've got big brakes all round and I'm wondering if the horizontal nature of the rears is trapping air in the calipers. Both rear calipers where removed and stored whilst all of the prop/diff/shafts were out. Any tips would be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted February 4, 2002 Share Posted February 4, 2002 Forgive me if this is a little obvious but I have seen it cause problems. There are two bleed nipples on the big brake calipers and if you only bleed one you will not get a good pedal. I have also removed calipers from mountings on occasions and tilted them to free up all air traps (assuming flexible brake pipes !) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted February 4, 2002 Author Share Posted February 4, 2002 Yes, I did spot that the fronts had two nipples (oohh err missus!) however it was a comment that Paul Ransom made that I found in the archive about tilting the rear calipers up so that the nipple was at the top seemed to help. I'm not there yet but it is a lot better. Any other tips greatfully received. The problem definately seems to be at the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danwhiley Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Not that I've actually done this myself (very new, green, excited, etc. owner), but I do recall Derek Moore from Caterham Midlands remarking that the rear brakes are a bugger to bleed, and suggested propping the back end up on axel stands to help any air flow upwards. Give it a go - you never know... Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dent Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Capn I have found through trial and error that screwing back teh plunger to force all air out gives a much better result. And believe me my brakes were dire at some stages last year. Worn rear pads meant the cylinder doing the pushing was quite a long way in and so lots of trapped air. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhill Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Did you change the rear pads whilst the brakes were out? IIRC it says in the manual that pedal firmness improves greatly as the rear pads bed in. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted February 11, 2002 Share Posted February 11, 2002 Cap'n, If you have AP rear calipers (as I trust you do on your K2RUM Tribute Car), you have to remove them, place a disc sized spaceer between the pads, and trun them so the bleed nipple is the higest point on the caliper. Now bleed them and all shall be solved. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Edited by - Fat Arnie on 11 Feb 2002 23:23:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted February 12, 2002 Author Share Posted February 12, 2002 Thank you all. Yes I do have the AP rears on my K2 RUM tribute car (less the max power coloured bolts!)...only joking Arn'. I used Paul's tip and very slightly loosened the union, tilted the caliper up to raise the nipple and hey presto a firm pedal. It always gets firm when I raise the nipples!blush.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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