"syner G" in a zetec

[SNH 280]

Does anyone know if i can run my 2L zetec (not tunned) on syner G, or must i stick with Fords semi/synth 5/30?

[julians]

You'll suffer from rattling tappets if you use anything other than a 5w-30 oil (is synerG a 5w-30?)

 

Well I do anyway.

[SNH 280]

thanks for that.Syner G is 5/40 would this make a diference

and do you suffer from tappet noise all the time or only

after high revs?

[julians]

I tried mobil 1 (0w-40) in mine and the tappets started to rattle, so I presume a 5w-40 will be the same. Shell do a fully sythetic 5w-30, this is what I use.

 

During normal driving there is no problem, it seems to be just sustained high revs that cause it (track days etc).

[stevefoster]

Nigel runs the Ford stuff on his Zetec and got rattly tappets.... That was at Curborough and may just have been low oil or something but he did top it up I remember.

Not sure what he is going to try next? Anybody using an anti cav set up on a Zetec?

 

I use SynerG in my VX XE. Anything else (Mobil1 Magnatec etc and the tappets are noisier.....

The VX loves SynerG a Zetec may not...

[julians]

I have also tried Castrol RS 0w-50 (or is it 10w-50?) and the tappets still rattled, the only oil where the tappets havent rattled is the shell helix ultra (5w-30), the car has done a fair few track miles with this oil and so far hasnt experienced any tappet rattle.

 

I havent tried the ford semi synth stuff so cant comment on it.

[Paul Turner]

Pleased someone else has asked this, just put my Zetec car on the road and I have noted that there has been lots of discussion about oil for VX's K's and x-flows but never Zetec's. My local Ford Dealer uses Shell Helix Ultra in my Puma (solid tappets) and not the Ford semi-synthetic, does this tell you something.

 

Paul

[millsn]

not sure if I really have a problem here. However when running for ages I sometimes get a misfire that fels electrical. I'll try 5w /30 on my next oil change. Is the Shell version the only one? Where do you get it?

 

Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs

[julians]

Shell petrol stations usually sell it ;-)

[Dave H]

I think you'll find that if you read the small print on teh side of teh Syner G container it says it's been developed for Zetec engines. I use it in mine (and in the K thats in the old Rover) and have no problems with noisey tappets.

 

Dave H

[SNH 280]

Thanks a lot for your help guys, going to take a gamble

on "Syner G" will let you know how i get on.

[Phil]

ref oil

first figure 10 as in 10/40 is the viscosity reading taken at -20 deg C, the lower the numbeer the better as it is faster moving from cold getting to the cam and hydraulics quickly giving less engine wear, also easy on your starter and battery, this is acheived by using a quality base crued oil and taking out impurities and adding chemicals to the oil to stop it from burning, foaming and varnishing.

the second number for example 40 relates to the viscosity taken at 100 deg C,some cars like a faster oil with a low second number as the engine revs high and needs the oil to move fast and disapate the heat quickly.

there is no such thing as a thick or thin oil, it is fast or slow.

there is no reason why you can not upgrade from say a 10/40 mineral oil to a fully synthetic and this will not result in leaks.

any oil should have the American Petrolium Institute [ API reading ] on the can or should not be touched, the reading for an oil of quality is J rated, this means that the oil is made with a quility crude base and meets all the top requirements.

bargains to be had are

A1 motor stores packaged oil 5/40 full syn 5ltr £28.49

Delphi [ac delco]5/40 full synth £28.49 5ltr

and Comma syner G 5/40 fully synth 5ltr price?

wynns engine flush add to oil before change is highly recomended £4.99 worth every penny, my Audi is on 176,000 is driven hard and engine like new, always used 5/40 fully synthetic from purchase at 73,000

[matthewwatkiss]

The Syner-G is fine, I run a 1.8 raceline Zetec and have always used the syner-g. It was recomended by James Whitting and the tappets are noiseless.

 

This is my experience of it anyway, only complaint if any is that it is hard to find a supplier who stocks it.

[Phil]

here are the specs for Comma oils

 

Syner Z 0w/40 fully synth highly recomended all engines.

Syner G 5w/40 fully synth highly recomended all engines.

Xtec 5w/30 semi synth standard for all ford zetec

engines.

Eurolite 10w/40 semi synth minimum requirement for all engines.

Comma do make a 15w/50, it is mineral based oil, but why skimp on oil saving a few quid when paying a small fortune on your pride and joy.

 

Mobil is a name and it has a reputation for being the best but they do produce many grades of oil, Mobil 1 being the reconised oil of 0w/40 fully synth, but the mentioned mobil 15w/40 is an overpriced mineral based oil and can be used but it is not recomended, Mobil, Castrol, Duckhams all produce good 10w/40 semi synth oil but overcharge for it and only give you 4 to 4.5 litres.

It does not matter how many revs you do or are intending to do, this does not determin what oil you should buy. As I have said before on cold start up the lower the first number the faster the oil giving less start up wear.Semi synthetic means that the oil is far more refined and cleaner and chemicals have been added to keep the oil performing to its best for longer ie better lubrication properties at any given point than a mineral based oil. Fully synthetic, this is a man made oil only using the best ingreadiants to make a near perfect oil, very good viscosity at -20 deg C very resiliant to braking down and very good at disapating heat.

people often think that the engine is making a noise as it is getting old and needs what they think is a thicker oil to plug the gaps, wrong, cheaper oils are burnt quicker by modern engines and sludge up causing the tappets to make a noise on start up as they are starved of oil and the varnishing effect on the tappets left by the oil makes them stick and stay noisy, Keep to the recomended oil or better no matter how many miles you have done as the oil has the correct additives for the job.

example ford OHC engine from the sixties ran on the best at the time 20w/50 then 15w/50 and you would expect about 70 to 100 thou tops. In 1983 the engine was given a new lease of life using better quality materials to build the engine and run on 10w/40 synth from new, these engines can happily if serviced correctly do 200 thou plus.

 

Thanks for your time and reading this. Hope it helps

[Mark Piper]

This has come at a good time. Hyperion put Syner G in my K 1.6 Supersport at its last service and ever since I did the Bentwaters track day in November it's rattled at start up. Definitely a top-end noise....I've also noticed a (top end) rattle when giving it some beans around a roundabout. Hyperion have told me I might have worn tappets/lifters (or whatever the term is). Is this forum telling me that in fact if I change the oil (there's now a Syner Z) the problem will go away? What's the recommended oil for Ks?

 

Oily Hands, where are you?....

 

 

[Jam Mad]

oops. so going for the best oil i could and filling my x flow with comma 15/40 means that i ought to take it easy on start until i next change it for a faster oil, like 10/40 ?

 

j

[allen]

Did I dream a posting stating that Halfords fully synthetic 5W 40 was produced for them by Comma and was identical to Syner G?

 

I remember reading it but a search failed to locate the post.

 

Am I loosing my marbles?

 

allen

[Mark Piper]

No Allen, you did - I read it....

 

 

[I.Mupferit]

Phil,

 

So are you saying that, in general, modern engines are better off with a fully synthetic oil where the first figure is numerically lower i.e. 0w/40 as in Mobil 1?

 

Brent

[Phil]

Firstly thanks for any replies given.

 

Simon n how, yes you can use, tuned or not, SynerG or SynerZ. You should not suffer from rattling tappets as a result.

 

julians. Castrol RS is a fully synth 0w/40 top spec but they only give you 4ltr at a high price.

 

paul Turner. Semi Synthetic means that it has additives

to increase brakdown resistance, increasing thermal and oxidation stability. It has deposit control, reducing formulation of sludge and varnish. Wear protection to improve oil film strength and breakdown resistance . The main reason for noisy tappets is a build up of varnish making the tappet stick, this is caused by to much heat possibly done by turning off the enginge when hot [specialy when racing] leaving no oil to circulate and disapate the heat, Turbo car owners are addvised to let the car cool down before leaving it for this very reason and a lot of turbo cars now have timers to keep the engine running for this purpose.

 

millsn. there are a few 5w/30 semi synthetics out there but you will pay a lot for them as they are not widley used at present, Fully synth would be a better buy. Petrol stations are always over priced.

 

Mark Piper. As I said racing your car produces a lot more heat and your car needs to cool down for a while so as to disapate the heat. Have you tried an oil designed for racing as these oils have a powerfull additive pacage that helps the oil withstand extreme temperaturesand ecessive rpm. Your tappets may be in need of a clean or a fresh set, Somtimes using a quility flushing oil like the one by Wynns which you add to your oil before you change it, this may help if not to bad.Minimum requirment for K series engines is 10w/40 semi synthetic but 5w/40 fully or 0w40 fully synth is highly recomended.

 

Jam Mad, ref your x flow engine, I am in the proses of buying a 1700cc x flow Caterham which has been serviced by the dealer and is using a 15w/40 oil mineral based.The first thing I will do when I get it is Flush it with Wynns,change the oil for a fully synthetic 5w/40 and I will be adding a can of Slick 50.

If you are on a budget a 10w/40 semi synthetic will do the job but if you want a fully synthetic will do a far better job.When you start your engine all the oil is at the bottom and the top end is starved until the oil is pumped up to it, the better the oil the faster moving it is because of a lack of impurities, so the quicker it gets to cams and tappets giving far less engine wear. The reason for using slick 50 is that it coats the metal parts giving instant protection while waiting for the oil to arrive, even more protection, using the flush by wynns removes sludge, varnish etc from metal parts and oil seals, preventing the seals from drying out and shrinking causing leaks, the oil still in the engine provides the lubrication and the waste particals are bonded to the oil, when the oil is removed ie drained it takes all the rubbish with it leaving a very clean engine, if a flush is not used, alayer of sludge,film of dirty oil sticks to the engine and your new oil arrives and collects this holding it in suspention as it is designed to, so you do not have a completely fresh start.

 

thanks for listening, any comments appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Phil]

ref question from Brent Chiswick

 

yes a fully synthetic will prolong he life of all modern engines and there are semi and full synthetics for deisel cars too. Always stick to the manufactures recomended service interval no matter how good the oil as the maker has calculated the amount of soot etc that the engine produces and the oil and filter can hold before becoming less efficient. Changing the oil early is not always neccassary and costs a lot of money, but can add to the life of an engine. In the early 80s Duckhams did a servey and found out that the average recomended service interal for oil was 6,000 miles but the average oil change was done between 10 and 11,000 miles, no wonder people have problems.

The lower the first number the better start up protection.

Thanks for the question, hope this answers it for you.

[James Arnold]

Phil,

thanks for you comments which I've read with interest.

I am a touch surprised by your enthusiasm for slick50. Whilst I cannot speak from experience, there is a load of very very anti-slick50 stuff on the internet.

The one that was the killer blow which stopped me from using it was this. Slick50s major active ingredient is PTFE and its makers (dupont) at one point refused to sell it as a motor oil additive.

A quick google search has found the very article that persuaded me not to risk it my motor. have a look here.

 

If the stuff was so good, why don't any manufacturer recommend it, or oil manufacturers put it in their oil

 

Edited by - James Arnold on 22 Feb 2002 11:24:57

[Blatman]

Same article that prompted me to NOT use Slick 50 ever.......

I noted on another thread that Phil has reccommended the use of semi-synth gearbox oil in Quaiffe/BGH bearboxes. I always though that semi synth was GL5 spec, and that type 9's using Quaiffe/BGH/Tran X internals ran best on GL4 specquestion.gif

I'm confused....confused.gif

[stevefoster]

I aked BGH when I had an SC box build by him. Synth 75w90 for example Comma red stuff was the answer.

Now I have an SPC built box they recommended Redline fully synth 75w-90 for Quaife internaled gearboxes OR equivalent. I use Comma equivalent which was fine by SPC.

 

Edited by - stevefoster on 22 Feb 2002 11:58:13

[Fast Westie]

Jam Mad, ref your x flow engine, I am in the proses of buying a 1700cc x flow Caterham which has been serviced by the dealer and is using a 15w/40 oil mineral based.The first thing I will do when I get it is Flush it with Wynns,change the oil for a fully synthetic 5w/40 and I will be adding a can of Slick 50.

 

Stand by to reduce oil pressure by at least 1/2 bar and have high oil consumption. Crossflows, like all 'old' engine designs have larger tolerances and different oil seal meaning they don't like Synthetic oils

 

The car in front is a Westfie1d wink.gif