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Bleeding Brakes!!


Harry Flatters

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Having just upgraded my front brakes and as a result the master cylinder drained dry, can some kind soul tell me what is the correct sequence to bleed/re-bleed the entire brake system to get back to a nice firm/hard (oooerr missus!) pedal?

 

The car is d/d with std rear callipers and uprated fronts which have a bleed nipple on each side of the calliper.

 

Steve Mell

PTM 88

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The sequence is

 

Longest run from master cyl first, shortest last.

 

Even if you use a one man bleed kit, its good practice to finish the bleed on each wheel by holding the brake pedal down, close off the nipple, then allow pedal to rise on its own, before you move onto the next wheel.

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As no one is replying.....

 

for a live axle... you start with either one of the front calipers and then do the other front, before moving to the rear... on the live you only have one bleed point at the back, whereas I guess you have two.

 

It really helps to have a spare person to sit in the seat and pump the pedal while you watch for the bubbles to stop... oh and don't let all the fluid run out from the master cylinder!!

 

Phil Waters

2000 Zetec is in, waiting to start it up wink.gif

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Phil,

 

I've got a live axle, and have always bled the rear first, then moved to the front, ie longest run first, shortest last.

 

So maybe my mechanical knowledge is flawed, and I've been doing it wrong.

 

In reality either will work, as the rear is fed from a different part of the master cyl.

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Basic theory is bleed the longest run first. However, modern systems have the safety advantage of dual circuits brakes, which virtually means two seperate systems - so I guess it doesn't matter which is done first, front of rear - but do longest run first,i.e. n/s front calliper on a right hand drive model.

 

Regards,

 

allen

 

PS, Steve, 6 inch exhaust now fitted - seems too quiet! The difference is dramatic

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Bugger!!!

 

I'll have to re-read my manual before I fit my new brakes then.. I know I did the fronts first last time and they have been fine since, but it sounds like I am wrong on this one - sorry guys...

 

[tail between legs]

 

Thanks for highlighting this at least - I would have just done it the same as last time otherwise.

 

Phil Waters

2000 Zetec is in, waiting to start it up wink.gif

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Steve,

 

Brake fluid is not expensive. It should only require about 0.5litre but buy a full 1litre so you have some continguency. Also, buy the fluid from a shop that is likely to have a good turnover of stock so that the fluid is fresh (not stood at the back of the shelf for 2 years).

 

When you are happy with the brakes - as in the job is finished - throw the remainder away. Even in a bottle, once the seal is broken, the fluid degrades by absorbing water from the atmosphere and will be dangerous in a matter of months.

 

Your life is worth more than the couple of pounds saved by skimping on fluid.

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