Chris W Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I have designed a few gadgets for the 7 which some people have already purchased and fitted. I am not doing these commercially so the quantities I can make are limited to a couple of dozen. The price does not reflect the time I take to design and make them, but they are things I have made for myself and I'm happy to do a few for fellow club members as I quite enjoy building them. All items can be fitted to a fixed or Q/R wheel where applicable. All the circuits employ microprocessors so are very sophisticated and reliable in the functionality they offer. They are all about 5" x 2.5" x 1.5" in size (except the gearshift lights - see below)and come with easy to fit instructions. You don't need to be an electronics whizz-kid to fit them. 1. CatFlash: Self-cancelling wheel or dash-mounted indicator switches with audible buzzer (can be switched off if required) and user settable time-out. One push ON, one push OFF or self-timeout. 2. CatStart: A single (big red) button (not wheel mounted). First push gives ignition ON, second push gives ignition OFF. A second push which is held for 1 second will operate the starter motor and will continue to crank until the button is released. When the engine is running, a push will switch OFF the engine and the ignition. If the engine stalls, the ignition will remain ON until you either push for OFF or push and hold to recrank the starter. Also, by means of an internal jumper selection, you have the choice of: a). The first push switches the ignition ON immediately (great for track days etc) or b). The first push needs to be held down for 3 seconds before the ignition switches ON. This gives a measure of security against some drongo in a carpark or your kids etc pushing the big red button. Nothing will happen unless the switch is held down for the required 3 seconds. 3. CatDip: a single button (wheel mounted if desired) which will flash the mainbeam headlights just like the normal flasher switch when pressed until it is released. If the headlights are switched ON, pushing the same button will now toggle the headlights between DIP and MAIN beam just like the standard dip/main switch. Two functions in one convenient button. 4. CatShift: Gearshift lights for normal or wasted spark ignition. Unlike the commercially available ones, this unit has 9 LEDs which can cover ANY range of revs eg: 4000 to 7000rpm or any larger or smaller range. The LEDs are arranged in 3 groups (3 green at the low rev end, 3 yellow over the middle rev range and 3 red at the top rev range). The user can also select by means of a switch that ,when all 9 LEDs are illuminated at the top end, they all flash together to warn the driver he/she is approaching maximum revs. A brightness control is also fitted as the unit uses hi-intensity LEDs for easy viewing in daylight but which need dimming at night to avoid snow blindness! The unit has only 3 wires to connect and comes in a small black box about 5" x 1" x1" which is fitted on the top of the dash in line of sight behind the steering wheel. Several club members have this unit already. Price for any of the above is £68 with the exception of the CatShift which is £100 (plus p&p or pick up from my home or club meeting). For anyone who lives near me (South Bedfordshire) I am also happy to fit any of the above at nominal cost. If anyone is interested, please email me on chris@cwyles.freeserve.co.uk Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 11 May 2006 19:45:57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 10, 2006 Leadership Team Share Posted May 10, 2006 Nice one Chris Quick question (nothing to do with lenses 😬) ......... is it pratical/possible to combine items 1/2/3 onto one board, or in one box? This would enable more features with less wiring & installation? maybe call it a "CatComplete" 😬 Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Hi Stu I could do them all on one board but I would have to redesign and layout a whole new PCB which is very, very time consuming. If enough people wanted it that way, it would be worth doing but otherwise I would have to charge a bundle just for the many hours it would take to redo it. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I can vouch for the indicator kit... I spent a couple of very pleasant hours, sitting in my seven, listening to my iPod, stroking a couple of our dogs and fitting Chris's indicator set up. It was a bit of a pain having to get out of the car to get another beer when the first bottle became empty but dogs don't like picking up glass! Excellant bit of kit, only bettered by the fitting instructions and pictures - especially the one of Chris's wife bread board! Chris, YHM JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Golf Juliet Tango Posted May 10, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted May 10, 2006 Chris I may want one of your oil surge designs... I am trying to ensure I will be at the Folly on Sunday - talk then. Stephen GJT Celerior quam currus festinans... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 GJT see you there.. John - thanks for the vote of confidence *thumbup* Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic M Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Timed out indicators. Very excellent idea *thumbup* Why oh Why aren't all cars fitted with them it would instantly stop all the idiots driving 30 miles down the motorway with the indicator going. Even the wife 53 year old Bentley had clockwork self timing indicators you can even change the delay by adjusting how far you turn the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal mickey Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Chris, is your catshift compatible with the Stack dash 🤔 If not can it be run off a mbe ecu 🤔Any piccies 🤔 Thanks, Mike. Edited by - metal mickey on 11 May 2006 12:05:52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Mike I'm not familiar with the internals of the Stackdash as I don't have one myself. However, the CatShift just needs an input from the tacho feed to operate. So if the tacho has pulses going into it like the non-Stackdash version, then it will operate fine. The magnitude of these pulses doesn't matter because my circuit converts the input pulses into a the shape and the level (voltage) it needs in order to take a reading. The CatShift can cope with normal or wasted-spark (double speed pulses). There is a simple internal selector switch for the appropriate ignition version. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 On the R3/4/500 loom the tacho signal is simply taken from the coil, and so is the genuine shift light feed. I trust you'll be ok! /r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 RJ Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisb Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I am interested in the Cat Start assembly. Just one question, if the engine is running, and stalls (Its a X-Flow with intermittant idling!) does holding the button for longer than 1 second operate the starter, or is it a case of cycle through the sequence from the beginning? In the meantime, I'll have one please. YHM Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Hi Chris It does the same as if you were using an ignition key in that situation, viz: the engine stalls but the ignition stays ON. Holding the button depressed for a second will operate the starter. You don't have to cycle through the whole process again. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 I will be compiling a list of all those who want the CatStart tomorrow and will be bulk buying the components in order to meet the price. Let me know by tomorrow if you want one (if you haven't contacted me already) as once I have made a batch I shall have to put a slight price hike on onesy-twosy quantities. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 I have modified the CATSTART software to give the following additional functionality. By means of an internal jumper selection, you will now have the choice of: 1. The first push switches the ignition ON immediately (great for track days etc) or 2. The first push needs to be held down for 3 seconds before the ignition switches ON. This gives a measure of security against some drongo in a carpark or your kids etc pushing the big red button. Nothing will happen unless the switch is held down for the required 3 seconds. Hope that appeals Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Chris, could you intergrate a "proximity" key to auto lock/unlock the ignition system? JH Deliveries by Saffron, the yellow 230bhp Sausage delivery machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 John The short answer is yes; I could integrate almost any other system into the design. However, I have no experience of actually designing these into circuits so would have to do some reading up and learning about the different systems available. I have no doubt that I can do it but I don't know at this stage what the price or timeframe impact would be. I would guess that the cost would go up significantly, but I will look at being able to add it at a later stage to an existing CatStart. That way people have a choice as to whether to spend the extra or not. Obviously, the existing immobiliser is not affected by the CatStart and so will still inhibit starting if activated. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 12 May 2006 10:30:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Are all of these suitable for 35mm or digital See some pictures of the build here. 9000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 🙆🏻 😬 😬 😬 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 15, 2006 Author Share Posted May 15, 2006 Last chance to order any of these circuits as I shall be buying the bulk components today. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 15, 2006 Author Share Posted May 15, 2006 If anyone one here has not emailed me DIRECTLY (rather than through Blatchat) and wants any of the circuits, please do so without delay to chris@cwyles.freeserve.co.uk Please use your normal email address rather than the Blatchat one as I can't send attachments to Blatchat email addresses. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Throbin Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Chris, I'm interested in the CatFlash for a Q/R steering wheel mounting. Any idea of cost - and how does the wiring run from steering wheel to unit? Thanks, Robin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 15, 2006 Author Share Posted May 15, 2006 Hi Robin The cost is as stated in my original post above (viz: £68). The connection to the Q/R wheel is via a flying lead with a miniature American style telephone plug and socket (officially known as an RJ11). To fit the wheel, you connect the plug first and then the wheel in the normal way. Removing the wheel is the reverse of this. You can either collect from my home or have it sent recorded delivery for £5. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 I have now bought the components for the people who have ordered the "CatStart" circuit. Because of the quantities and price breaks involved, I have enough components left over for about another 6 of these circuits. If you would like one, please notify me on chris@cwyles.freeserve.co.uk ASAP as I will sell them on a first-come-first-served basis. I have no plans to build a second batch as I have orders for other circuits to fulfill. Price is £68. The unit is simple to fit and comes with detailed and easy fitting instructions. As a reminder, the CatStart does the following: CatStart: A single (big red) button. First push gives ignition ON, second push gives ignition OFF. However, a second push which is held for 1 second will operate the starter motor and will continue to crank until the button is released. When the engine is running, a push will switch OFF the engine and the ignition. If the engine stalls, the ignition will remain ON until you either push for OFF or push and hold to recrank the starter. So all the ON,OFF and START functions in one simple button. Also, by means of an internal jumper selection, you have the choice of: a). The first push switches the ignition ON immediately (great for track days etc) or b). The first push needs to be held down for 3 seconds before the ignition switches ON. This gives a measure of security against some drongo in a carpark or your kids etc pushing the big red button. Nothing will happen unless the switch is held down for the required 3 seconds. The existing immobiliser functionality is totally unaffected and fitting is simply a case of removing the 3 wires from the ignition switch (or existing switch/big red button) and plugging them into the circuit. If you ever sell the car and want to convert back, just replug the wires back on to the ignition switch. The CatStart uses standard spade connectors so it's fast and simple. Email me today please if you would like to be on the list - delivery will be about 2 weeks. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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