N Blandin Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Daft question, I take it you have to take the rear calipers off to swap the pads on a 1990 spec car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 If they are std sierra jobbies, then yes. Info below assumes Sierra calipers There are 2 15mm bolts at the back of the caliper. You wuold also do well to obtain a brake windback tool - Halfords stock them, or borrow from a fellow 7er - as you will need to wind the pistons back into the calipers prior to installing the new pads. Be careful when you lift the caliper off the disc, as the lines to the caliper are usually 'solid' and can bend / kink quite easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 here Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Oh, nearly forgot don't lose the two spacers that are between the caliper and the (edit) DD Ear / whatever Edited by - mav on 9 May 2006 21:56:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Bellhousing? Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 Why take the whole caliper off? Why not just undo the 2 bolts holding the caliper claw to the carrier. It's then an easy job to wind the piston back, refit the pads & replace the claw. I must adit that I used to remove the whole caliper until I saw a guy from Hyperion change the pads this way in 5 minutes; both sides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 It never occured to me to remove the whole clapper... I can't see the point - apart from anything, if your discs are worn, they'll have a ridge of material around the outer radius of the disc that will make it rather tricky to get the pads around. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N Blandin Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Thanks guys, i've not had rear discs before so I'm still a bit in the dark (ages!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davef Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I changed my pads tonight - 30 min job, following Myles instructions. I used a wind back tool, and just carefully lifted the floating part of the caliper. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannylt Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 If you don't have a wind back tool, then some thin nosed pliers work just fine if you're angry enough - took a couple of minutes of swearing each side. I thought I'd never see one of these sierra jobbies when I got rid of my Chimaera all those years ago! Talk about blast from the past... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I did mine recently and used the disc change tool from my angle grinder. It never occurred to me to remove the whole caliper plus carrier - they are designed to split for pad changes after all. 13mm ring spanner or socket plus 15mm open ender required, and it's nice and easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now