MartinS Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Hi all, Over the weekend I noticed one of my front wheels had a fair bit of play in the bearings, so I decided to tighten the nut a little to remove the play. On getting the dust cap off, the nut was tight (ie it couldn't be moved with just my hand), although a tiny bit of anti-clockwise turn did make the nut loose. Anyway, I tightened to the next point where I could replace the split pin (horizontally now not vertically), and put everything back together. I'm now worrying that I've over tightened the nut. The hub & disk on their own still runs fairly freely (although a lot less than before) and with the momentum of the tire the lot seems to run freely, but I'm worried I might be doing nasty things to the bearings by overheating them or alike? So short question, how much tollerace is there in the bearings to being 'tight'? (and no dirty comments to that one please 🙆🏻) or am I just being a big worry? Cheers M. Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wag Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I bet the average garage mechanic does not take the care we do, nevertheless, wheel bearings do not fail often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 There should be about a mm of movement at the rim that you should be able to feel just after you have jacked up. If you then spin the wheel a few times the play should virtually disappear if check for play again without putting the wheel down on the ground. This is normal as the bearing has centred itself and the grease has moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted May 8, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted May 8, 2006 Hi Martin, The rule of thumb is to tighten up finger tight and then back off to line up the split pin with the next available slot in the castellated nut. With a new bearing you may find things slackening off after a few hundred miles as things settle down, but on a bearing that's been in a while you ought to err on the slack side. If you feel the bearing is too loose having backed off you could try with/without the thin shim washer(s) that should accompany the thick 'D' washer to get a feel you're happy with. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Occasionally the nut can appear to lock initially, even though its not tight against the washer and bearings. This is due to a rough edge on the nut castellations or the edge of the split pin hole catching. Nothing to worry about and adjust as the other guys have suggested. If you take the hub off (you'll have to remove the brake caliper), use the opportunity to check the felt seal and oil (not grease) it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted May 8, 2006 Author Share Posted May 8, 2006 Humm, OK, so should I be worried or not? If I followed Crudder's advice I guess I should be, but I always thought you shouldn't be able to feel any play in the wheel at all (with the weight of the car on it), or is that wrong as well? Cheers all so far! M. Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted May 8, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted May 8, 2006 You shouldn't be able to feel any significant play or clonks with the wheels on the ground Martin, but a small amount of float with the wheel suspended is no bad thing. If you have no play at all the bearing will be too tight under load/heat and will wear prematurely. If you have them the shim washers can be moved around to give you a good compromise between what appears to be too tight and too slack. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted May 8, 2006 Author Share Posted May 8, 2006 Humm, I don't think I have shim washers, although I'm not sure what they are ;) Are they just additional washers to have the nut tightern at a slightly different point? Thanks for your help Richard. Thinking about it before I muck about too much I might replace the washer as the existing one is a bit scored and rough from when the previous bearings were knackered. Are these washers easy enough to get hold of? Cheers! Martin Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted May 8, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted May 8, 2006 Are they just additional washers to have the nut tightern at a slightly different point? Aye Rimmer Bros (not necessarily the cheapest place to get your Triumph bits but they do have a lovely website) do the 'D' washers - Part No. 102690 on this diagram here. £2.10 each! No sign of the shim washers I have in my hubs though You could always buy some new castellated hub nuts (a relative snip at £1.30) and by trial and error you should end up with something you're happy with. I've always found Caterham prices very reasonable for this sort of thing - if they have them in stock. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 Thanks again Crudders, new pair of 'D' Washers turned up last night 😬 Next plea for help, is there anyone in the Surrey / E Sussex area who would mind giving me a hand this weekend getting these bearings sorted once and for all? I'm more than happy to do the hard and messy work, just would be really keen to have someone with experience say 'no too loose', 'no too tight', 'yes just right' 😬 Cheers! Martin Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevsta Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Anyone know where you can get the felt from...out of interest?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 The felt comes with a new bearing, these are cheap enough. Taper roller bearings are used on wheels because they are tolerant of endfloat, the best test is to put your hands on the top of the wheel with the car on the ground and your foot at the bottom, then crouch down and HEAVE the wheel back and forth. You should feel the slightest movement - 1mm is about it - and if this is the case then leave it alone. No harm will come from a slightly slack bearing, though the movement will mean that the brake pads retract further and you will have a slightly longer brake pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted May 12, 2006 Author Share Posted May 12, 2006 Ah, so a small amount of movement is OK? M. Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 A small amount of movement is *essential*. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted May 12, 2006 Share Posted May 12, 2006 Caterham supply the felt seals as seperate items. I would assume Rimmer do as well along with Redline et al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinS Posted May 13, 2006 Author Share Posted May 13, 2006 Thanks very much Crudders and BOSS, both wheels bearings repacked and tightened as advised (ie not tight!) 😬 Just gone for a quick run, and my high speed wobble has gone *thumbup* although I think the wobble was more to do with getting rid of the dodgy D washer I had than the tightness of the bearing nut. Anyway, I'm eager for a blat now, is there anyone interested in resurecting the Sunday morning breakfast blat club with me? Martin Martin Saunders ohh, is it upgrade time? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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