mav Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 How is it done? Will it just pull out? Is it a push fit for the new one, ot is it an engine to bits and use a press? Anyone know a part number I can use at a motor factors to obtain a replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Mav, is it a roller bearing type? If so it should pull out. If you have a new one you can always destroy the old by collapsing it with a screwdriver and hammer. If you remove flywheel it's quite easy. However are you sure it needs replacing? Ed to answer 2nd question. It will push in with a little help from a drift. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Edited by - nverona on 5 May 2006 13:28:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 The rollers have fallen out Norm. I'm sure they are not just a loose fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 I once read that you could remove the spigot bearing by filling with grease then using a close fitting drift, whack the end with a hammer and the hydraulic pressure created behind the bearing will pop it out. Well I tried it and all I succeeded in doing was getting a face full of grease as it squirted out at high velocity. 😬 I would go with Normans suggestion of breaking it up to remove it. I've done this with great success on many occasions. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Prise the old one out using a scewdriver or drift. Be careful fitting the new one use a socket or something of a similar diam and GENTLY tap in. Lightly grease the bearing and when refitting the gearbox smear a small amount of grease on the end of the input shaft. Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Thanks Guys. Looks like I might have more work than I bargined for ❗ As I removed one of the fly wheel bolts, I found it to be covered in engine oil. ☹️ There was no trace of this in the belhousing, the clutch facing side, or indeed the back of the flywheel. I assume this will mean a complete engine rebuild as the crank seal will need replacing, which means the car is now indefinately off the road ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Durrant Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Mav Sorry to hear about the engine ☹️ IIRC you have a k series and if so the spigot shaft bearing fits into a very fine sleeve that fits into the crank. If you can get the bearing out without damaging the sleeve you will be OK but the bearing is a very tight fit and after damaging one bearing whilst trying to fit a new one I used a belt sander to fettle it slightly to help ease it into place. If you damage the sleeve you will obviously have to replace this and I always fit the sleeve before fitting the bearing. Good luck and I hope your back on the road soon Mark D Comp Sec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Spigot Bearing is broken up see here And The oil I found after removing the flywheel is here Hmmm maybe the change to 1800 is going to come sooner than I was expecting... 🙆🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Thanks Mark. Also wishing yours a speedy recovery... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Martin, surely it is worth just replacing the crankshaft rear seal if the engine is sound rather than a full strip. Take a look in the rover engine manual for rear seal fitting details. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Checking now Ian. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Overhaul p91 Spigot bearing should collapse/break up as others have suggested. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Not in my manual... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 drop me a b-mail and I'll send the page right on back Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 What am I failing to understand... On the other side of the flywheel is... the inside of the engine that should be full of oil I've just splurged 100 quid on the Sealey AK714 blind bearing extractor set that does the spigot bearing job properly and (more to the point) quickly. I see a fair few of these so it is money well spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 It's 123 😬 So far... Rear crank oil seal LUF000050 £19.58 Flywheel bolts TSK10005 £0.77 Spigot bearing Ford part 1596468 £9.35 Clutch driven plate CP2257-9 £35.94 Total parts cost so far £81.65 Oil seal and flywheel bolts are ordered. Collect next week. Bearing is in stock at my Ford agent. Driven plate was in stock when I checked with Questmead. Only part I may be stuck for is if i need a replacement sleeve for the bearing, which is a Caterham only part and they are not in stock, as they are not needed very often (the sleeve or the bearing)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old captain slow Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 IIRC the Haynes manual says put a smear of moli grease on the bearing before marrying up the gearbox. C7 CDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Peter C: What am I failing to understand... On the other side of the flywheel is... the inside of the engine that should be full of oil I've just splurged 100 quid on the Sealey AK714 blind bearing extractor set that does the spigot bearing job properly and (more to the point) quickly. I see a fair few of these so it is money well spent. 1. There should be no oil showing on the outside of the crank seal - regardless of wether the flywheel is there or not - Correct? 2. £100 on a tool to remove the bearing is excatly what I don't need right now, I'm struggling to find the 80 - 90 quid I need to do a temporary get it back up and running job, let alone the couple of hundred I need to spend to do it all right (new driven plate + Cover + all seals and Gaskets + head bolt set + LW Flywheel + fit all the bits I've got in the garage + emerald mapping session). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 Well I tried it and all I succeeded in doing was getting a face full of grease as it squirted out at high velocity.Ooh! I'd have paid good money to see that 😬 I think there might have been quite a queue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 1. There should be no oil showing on the outside of the crank seal - regardless of wether the flywheel is there or not - Correct? Correct. As Ian has said, replacement requires no engine dismantling. Be wary when fitting the new spigot bearing. The fit is very tight. I use a spiraband on a dremel to dress the inside of the sleeve. Get it very clean afterwards and make sure you have a good smear of lube on it so it doesn't pick up on insertion. If it stops moving, get it back out and work out whether it twisted out of alignment or was just too tight and needs more dremeling. Test with a clutch alignment tool at the end of this process. If the tool doesn't go in in one go, the bearing is scrap and you must start again... Hence why I have the AK714 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Passing up trhis way anytime over the weekend? I could do with that bearing tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 yhm Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted May 5, 2006 Author Share Posted May 5, 2006 Cheers, so do you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted May 5, 2006 Leadership Team Share Posted May 5, 2006 Mav, Both my original 1400 and my current 1800 weep oil from the flywheel bolt holes when the flywheel is removed. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted May 5, 2006 Share Posted May 5, 2006 You're a sick man Mr Whitley, laughing at the misfortune of others ❗ I have to admit, though, that even I laughed at the time and it was some 30 years ago when I was young enough to still experience the emotion of embarrassment. 😬 Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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