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Starter button - Jobs a good un !!


Jason Plato

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Flip switch and starter button now installed and working a treat ! .

Wiring is as follows :

remove black shroud around ignition switch ( warning this is the point of no return as at cannot be refitted ), on the rear of the ignition unit are 3 male connections marked as 50 , 30 & 15

50 = Red / white wire ( Starter motor signal )

30 = 2 brown ( Constant live )

15 = 2 white + 1 red ( ignition on/off )

Add 2 feeds from brown wires 30 .

connect ignition flip switch to wires from 15 & 30 .

connect starter button to wires from 50 & 30 .

reconnect battery / master switch .

Flip your switch , press your button and Vrooom ! Jobs a good un !

Now the difficut bit..... where on the dash do I mount them ??

Time taken = 30 mins .

Please double check your own ignition wiring before starting as it may be different ?

David J

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on my race car, I've put the push button between and below the water temp/oil press guages - if you spin/stall it you'll be fishing for 1st, so the starter is 6 inches away at most. As for the flip switch, let me suggest, move it away from the steering wheel - a long way, but somewhere you can reach it when strapped in and ready to go! Sit in the car, strap yourself in and move your arms around - see what's available. Good luck.
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Surely if you are fishing for first you'd be better off having the starter switch the other side of the steering wheel, where you can simultaneously "fish" and "start"...? I'm only asking coz I'm still deciding where to place mine.
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I've fitted a simple push button starter button in the same location as Mark, below the water/oil guages. You can get quite a fast, smooth action in single handedly selecting first and starting the engine, the distance between gear lever and button being minimal. Wonderful stuff this 'red haze' that descends at times of panic!! Obviously with a flip cover fitted the action will be a little slower....
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Thanks for flagging this up guys, I've done mine now and it's great.

 

Easily worth 0.0 sec a lap I reckon, but I just can't pass the garage now without giving it a little thumb! :D

 

Roll on the next track day, I've got an incentive to spin now!!

 

Nick

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Just for information I fitted my starter button the other day and as I have got rid of the screen and have no use forr the wipper or the squirter buttons I removed the wipper button and installed thhe button in its place I just had to get a plastic plumbing washer from B&Q and sopray it black to take up the excess hole round the starter button.

This is nice as I have kept all holes for the screen incase I sell and a later owner wants to refit the screen.

 

Keith Pickering

superlight T7 KCP

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Just for information I fitted my starter button the other day and as I have got rid of the screen and have no use forr the wipper or the squirter buttons I removed the wipper button and installed thhe button in its place I just had to get a plastic plumbing washer from B&Q and sopray it black to take up the excess hole round the starter button.

This is nice as I have kept all holes for the screen incase I sell and a later owner wants to refit the screen.

 

Keith Pickering

superlight T7 KCP

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Am I imagining it or did someone once say that the flip cover type strater button could be used as a kill switch by pressing the red cover ?

 

Now that would look great and do a great job.

 

I notice there are several in the DT, et al catalogues. Which one would be needed for a Caterham ?

 

Ta, Davebo.

C7 CAR.

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I'm just about to fit an R500 push start but it occured to me that unlike the key start it will be possible to push the button when the engine is running and run the risk of damaging the ring-gear, flywheel and clutch or a combination of all.

 

To avoid this, what would be needed would be to isolate the switch once the engine is running by supplying the switch with a power source that is not present when the engine is running. The only circuit I can think of that is on when the engine is not (and vica-versa) is the ignition light. Since the starter switch is only actuating a relay and not the starter moter itself there should not be too much of a draw on the ignition light circuit. CC tech heads said it may work but as the ignition light feed comes directly from the alternator there may be a risk of blowing the rectifier (in the alternator) if the starter relay draws too much juice.

 

Has anyone any views on this, done it orgot any other suggestions (other than DON'T PRESS THE BLOODY BUTTON!)

 

Steve (PTM 88)

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Steve - don't worry about it. The button needs a proper push and when pushed it's recessed, so not really easy to hit by accident. Of course this doesn't stop you pressing it when the engine's running, but then you can turn the key when it is too. You only do it once :)

 

Dave - that's what the flip up caps on aircraft style switches are for and it works really well. The only disappointing thing I've found is that I've yet to see a "proper" red one. They all look a slightly dark red!

 

Take a look here to see both installed. You can also get aircraft style switches that act as a starter with a further push upwards (off-on-"int on"). I preferred the button - more of a sense of occasion when starting it!

 

For other switches and stuff, you might want to take a look at Vehicle Wiring Products who sell all sorts and the prices aren't bad.

 

C7 AJM

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Thing on the top of the dash is a shift light run through the Stack. Contemplated having one of the multi light jobs but this is just as effective. Set it to come on a couple of hundred revs before the limiter cuts in and it works a treat. Nice and bright.

 

I'm not sure what rating the switch is but can find out. I'd guess that *any* you buy for car use will be suitable for a starter application though as this is what they're used for typically. I'm pretty sure it fits into the same size hole as the warning lights.

 

The switches on the wheel are for the Stack. The left one operates the layer change (button 3) and the right is the trip/lap reset (button 4).

 

The switches can be bought from Stack in sets of 4 (39 quid for 4 believe it or not! Cheaper are available at VWP I think). The bracket was made up by Ratrace but it's nothing complicated, just a shaped piece of ali'. It would also be possible to install the buttons into the spokes of the wheel, but they work really well where they are.

 

The coiled cable is attached to a mil' spec' connector under the dash so is fully removable (and theoretically very reliable). It's a pain to get on in the dark though (I imagine this'll get easier with time).

 

The crap plastic toggles in the picture will be replaced by alternatives at some point soonish. The ones on the right had to be filed down as I kicked them off three times getting my large frame into the car with the hood up!

 

 

 

C7 AJM

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Sorry about that. I can't find them on there now either (I'm sure they can get hold of one if you called them).

 

Ratrace supplied it for me. I've just looked through the invoices and it doesn't look like they charged me for it! But I know they have some hung up on their wall in packets so either give them a call (020 8830 5677) or I'll tell you how much they are tomorrow afternoon as I'm popping up there...they're generally no more expensive than Caterham for bits (I think Caterham supply parts to official agents at "cost" so that any mark up doesn't make them more pricey).

 

C7 AJM

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I bought and installed the same switches as the photos last year via Demon Theives

£13.52 for the aircraft flip switch

£8.94 for the starter button .

 

You can also buy a single combined starter / ignition flip switch for £27.56

 

I've found the best value sequential shift light to be the Alpha 5 LED for £50 . This gives 1000rpm sequential warning .

Available from Aldon automotive ( use your search option )

 

 

Dave J

 

Edited by - Dave J on 12 Jan 2001 21:32:32

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