R500 'big-red' push-button start (wiring it up to a 1.6k)

[masha]

Can anyone confirm which of the 4 terminals on the back of the Caterham supplied (Farnell) push-button start I should connect to what?

 

I've read the thread on fitting the aviation-style, flip and toggle start switch and was wondering if anyone could confirm the wiring descibed is similar on the push-button in relation to a std. 1.6k/Superlight/MEM's vehicle.

 

thanks

Matthew

[Big Brother]

Masha,

 

From memory you need to use the two outer terminals.

 

For instructions on wiring up, see the thread titled "starter Button"

There is a link to the "instruction" post.

Also there are instructions on fitting on the modifications page at the Seven gallery.

 

 

 

Steve

 

cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif

[masha]

Sorted thanks: here's the summary: courtesy of the 7gallery site I believe, thanks

 

Big Red Caterham Starter Button

Fitting the Big Red Starter Button couldn't be easier, this was how I

did it:

 

1) Disconnect the battery.

 

2) The hard bit, work out where you want the button to go, and cut a

suitable sized hole, being careful not to catch any wires behind the

dash. I used a drill to make a series of holes to get a rough hole and

then finished it off with a Dremel.

 

3) Measure the distance between the button and the ignition and cut two

lengths of appropriate ampage auto electrical wire (allowing for

cable routing). Cut a third length of wire about 6 inches long.

 

4) Take one of the long lengths and the short length and twist the ends

together and attach a female spade connector. Attach a male spade

connector to the other end of the short cable and a suitably sized

female connector (for connection to the button) to the other end of the

long wire. This is wire A.

 

5) Attach a male spade connector to one end of the other wire, and

again, a suitably sized female connector to the other end for

attachment to the button. This is wire B.

 

6) Remove the black shroud from the rear of the ignition barrel, it

should just slide off. Feed the new wires you have assembled through

this shroud.

 

7) Locate the connector on the ignition barrel with two brown wires

attached, remove this connector and taking wire A, attach the female

spade connector to the ignition barrel where you have just removed the

brown wires. Connect the male spade connector to the brown wires you

have just removed. Run the remaining long end to one terminal on the

button.

 

8) Locate the connector on the ignition barrel with the red & white wire

attached, remove this connector and taking wire B, attach the male spade

connector to the red & white wire. Run the other end of the wire to the

other terminal on the button.

 

9) Reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition using the key and press

the button. Simple really!

 

[Paul McKenzie]

Masha,

Can you help me with this to finally clarify?

1. Which two terminals of the button do you use?

2. Wiring it as you described, is the engine capable of being cranked at all times (by mistake or somebody fiddling)

3. If this is the case, instead of using the brown wires for the live feed, is it possible instead to use the white wire as suggested by Elie Boone in the previous thread.He said that, in this case there will be no power on the button when the key is not at the ignition position

Masha, Elie and other auto-electrical experts, your comments please.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[elie boone]

Paul, I did not used the Caterham starter button but a Bosch part n° 0 343 004 003 price 30£ !!!!! and it is fitted in the triangle on the left af the steering wheel ( LHD )but the button is in a safety housing.

For safety reasons i would defenently use the white wire.

[Big Brother]

Paul,

Just checked mine - if you use the Farnell button its the two outer terminals you need.

 

If you tap one terminal into the white wiring (from the ignition switch) and move the red/white wire (from the ignition switch) to the other terminal on the button. This results in the button only working when the ignition circuit is live (key turned).

 

Steve

 

cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif

[Paul McKenzie]

Thanks, Steve

All is now clear

Paul

 

[Richard J Darnell]

I'm dragging this thread back up to the top to ask if anyone knows what ampage wire I should use to wire the button into the ignition for 1.6k?

Is it critical to use the correct ampage wire or will any wire of similar thickness to the ignition wire do?

I know very little about electrics so any guidance would be appreciated....

[Big Brother]

Richard,

 

The amperage is not critical as the button is used momentarily (unless you've got a x flowsmile.gif}and only operates a solenoid. It is this that takes the starter current.

 

Choose a guage wire the same or bigger than the existing ignition wiring and all should be fine.

 

If you only have "thin" wire, it is OK to double it up and run 2 instead of 1.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Steve

 

cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif

[Bafty Crastard]

I think you will fined the terminal on the push button is so small that the appropriate "spade" connector will only take a fairly thin wire !

[Graham Sewell]

I am somewhat concerned about using this lash up to extend the '2 brown wires' that are the feed from the alternator. THese can carry upto 45Amps and are then directed via the ignition switch to the fuse box. Surely all you need is a switched live (accessory position) and a wire (preferably white/red to the starter control. Both of these should be low current as the solenoid will not draw much current.

 

Cheers,

 

Graham

[Harry Flatters]

I fitted the big red button this year and wired it to the switched supply so that the engine would not crank with the ignition off.

 

What worried me more was, what if some inquisitive dipstick decided to hit the button while the engine was running and grenade my starter-motor/ring-gear etc.

 

Solution: I used a electronic module (from a car alarm) which only supplies power to the starter button for about 15 seconds. Plenty of time to start the engine, but then it deactivates until the ignition is switched off and then on again. No good for racing but a neat solution for the road.

 

If anyone is interested I could probably come up with a wiring diagram and details of the electronic module.

 

Steve Mell

PTM 88

[Paul McKenzie]

Graham,

Don't touch the brown wires.

Do exactly what Steve Motts told me to do in the earlier posting on this page i.e. one wire from an outer terminal of the button to the white wire terminal on the switch (you may be lucky like me and find a piggy-back connector already there), and secondly remove the red/white wire from the switch and extend it and connect it to the other outer terminal of the button.

Also the whole job is a lot easier if you first remove the steering lock/switch assembly so you can see what you're doing.

Paul

 

[masha]

Thanks for the discussions on this so far.. I've got mine installed and up and running (I haven't done anything to stop it working when the engine's running though - I just avoid pressing it). The scariest part for me was drilling the carbon dash on the SL but a new hole-saw bit did the trick fairly painlessly (and neatly).

 

What I would like to know if anyone can figure out a circuit to press the switch again (once running) to cut the car out - ie one press to start, one press to stop (to stop having to reach for the key at all now its fitted). Alternatively I could put a cut out on another rocker-switch for convenience and to keep the dash neat - I have a spare heater and brake-test button not being used I could adapt?

 

M

 

 

[Harry Flatters]

Masha,

 

I have got to do some carbon fibre hole cutting soon. Can you tell me what make hole cutters you use and where you get them and what sizes they do.

 

Thanks a load

 

Steve Mell

PTM 88

[elie boone]

Masha, If you use a rocker switch for the ign. cut out you have to use a relais of 75 or 100 amp.

[Richard J Darnell]

For cutting the hole which I agree is the "scary bit" I just used a hole cutting drill bit that I already had (marked 20 which i assume is 20mm in diameter).

 

This was fractionally too small to fit the R500 button (the one Farnell sell - I bought this direct for £8.05, with free delivery - bargain!) so I finished off with a round file.

 

My dash is the standard plastic coated metal one, but the hole produced was very neat.

 

Not sure if cutting into carbon fibre needs a different approach....

 

I just need to wire the button up now!