laserblues2 Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 Does anyone have any experience of the Klicktronic gearchange system?? Just considering buying one for an R1 engined MK GTR... Thanks for help in advance! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laserblues2 Posted February 14, 2005 Author Share Posted February 14, 2005 anyone?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 Fluke Motorsport run an R1 engined car with Klicktronic and Translogic flatshift. here ... might be worth getting in touch with them. The driver, gee_fin (?) posts on here. Also try the Westfield board, or Locost Builders, or the Yahoo BEC list as they will have more experience than folks here. Will probably be fitting this combo to my BEC next year. But have read reports that the Klicktronic is pretty heavy, and can be an 🙆🏻 to find neutral, but certainly works well. The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 I have the Kliktronic and Translogic flatshift combo for my R1 BEC but have not got around to installing them yet. The Kliktronic solenoid unit is quite heavy, but this is going to be offset by the 😬 😬 😬. I am making up some paddles to trigger the unit rather than buttons, which should be fun! As for neutral - you can always revert to your manual gearchange for that The guys at Kliktronic are fantastic - they upgraded my control unit and sent me a few other bits FOC, despite not buying it through them . Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 Worried about the effect of all that clutchless shifting on the R1 box ? The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted February 14, 2005 Share Posted February 14, 2005 Oops sorry, been a bit busy, missed this one.... Been running a Kliktronic + Translogic for a couple of years now. When working, it's a joy but it does take a bit of getting used to. If you flick the paddle ala video games 1/20 gearchanges will be a false neutral, you have to squeeze the paddle each time, takes a little getting used to but as said, when working, jeez... It won't do any damage whatsoever to your box as the R1 (despite, what to me are false rumours) is plenty strong gearbox-wise (it's the standard clutch that's weak). I cannot overstate the importance of a flatshift on a bike engine, it opens up a new area of driving to you. You may think that you can shift quickly without one, and you probably can, but the speed that a flatshift adds cannot be understated. The other hugely important thing that it allows is mid-corner gearchanges without upsetting the car, very useful when you've got six close ratios to play with. The paddles mean you always have your hands on the wheel and again, until you've used them, you won't believe how much time and freedom they allow. I am considering changing the system this year, either to the Techtronics/KCW or ProShift system, as this has an auto-blip on the downshift and ignition cut (on the downshift) meaning you never need to use the clutch except on initially moving off, so hello left foot braking everywhere... Welcome to pop over for a try or to have a nose at the installation if you wish. Graeme. Photo of installation here - www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk/temp/pics/semi-auto.jpg Videos of it in action here - Paddleshift Flatshift + paddles Flatshift + paddles + badly put together R1 = boom ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Edited by - gee_fin on 14 Feb 2005 16:53:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 Why are people using paddles in preference to button shift ? The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 Purely from my sim-racing past, I found paddles much easier/comfortable to access than buttons in the heat of the moment - they're (relatively) big so easier to hit! Lobbying Caterham for a new badge.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 The cars I've tried with buttons (by your thumbs) are a bit fiddly, I personally would have preffered to have the buttons on the back of the steering wheel as that would require less hand dexterity to hit each time. Either way though, paddles are for more natural to use than buttons. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Are paddle shift commerically available ? Been having a look, and can't find much. Also, Graeme, I noticed a few years ago you had doubts about these systems due to the gearbox problems (6 dog / 3 dog - not that I pretend to know what the heck that is about) ! Can I assume that these issues have gone away ? Or does it require a new set of gears ? The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Are paddle shift commerically available ? Been having a look, and can't find much.There are companies that will sell a set of paddles, but they are usually hideously expensive from the ones I've enquired about. Proshift wanted about £300 or so for theirs (!!!!!) and I saw some lovely paddles at Autosport, made by a German company - I enquired and discovered they were a grand! No probs though - I have been fashioning my own, copying an idea I spotted on some Japanese PC steering wheel 😬 Got the guitar, got the keyboard - now got the engine 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted March 5, 2005 Share Posted March 5, 2005 Some of the simple solenoid systems shift too fast and just go dog-to-dog bending shift forks. You really need something pneumatic-esque to cushion the shift. The Kliktronic is variable stroke so is okay(ish) with this, a flatshift system helps no end with the smoothness/reliability of the shift though. Paddleshift systems are a bitch to find for sensible money, tbh, the best bet is to cannabalise a decent video game wheel for (just) the paddle mech. Sounds silly but it will save you a lot of hassle and when combined with a decent Momo/SPA wheel you won't notice. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 I quite fancy a system like this for the Blade... how ever I looked on the Klicktronic website and I wondered if they have quoted the sepcs wrong Beacuse it says the standard system draws 25 Amps the upgraged systems use more!! would have thought this could cane the Battery/generator on a Bike engine the page is; here look at the bottom of the page it basicly says this... Dimensions & Electrical specifications Length (body): 150mm - Diameter: 50mm - Length of connecting rod (6mm dia) : 80mm extended - 30mm retracted Power consumption Amps (nominal 12volt supply) : Standard : 25A - High Power: 35A - Super High Power: 48A Weight 1.5Kg 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 Nothing wrong with those specs - the current draw is only for a few milliseconds though, so I guess this is not as traumatic on the charging system as it first looks It seems to be working well on a variety of bikes and BECs out there, with dinky little batteries..... Got the guitar, got the keyboard - now got the engine 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 Yep, never drained the battery, even with the lamp pod running. Amusing when all lights (9 of them) are running though as, before I piggy backed the 'night battery', the lights would instaneously dim each gearchange Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 I better start saving my pennies for a Klicktronic 😬 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Is it possible to mount the gubbins from a videogame on the wheel/hub then (so it goes round with the wheel) ? Or are these fixed to the dash as in the Subaru rally cars ? The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 I don't see any reason why it's not possible, just depends on the wheel. You're really on the after the microswithces, you can always cut new paddles from alluminium/carbon if required :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Noger - in my design, the paddles are going to be attached to the wheel (ie. they turn with the wheel). I basically got someone to cut copies of my ali 'video-game' paddles (I've got to sell it so can't use the originals!). The pivot mechanism on the PC wheel is a bit crude (basically a flexing bit of plastic!), so I'm going to try my own using springs. I've only just got around to buying a MOMO wheel, so will have a play with assembling it all at Easter.... Got the guitar, got the keyboard - now got the engine 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 AH, OK, all sounds good, thanks. Final question I promise ! Looks like the "other" end of the actuators need to fit onto the chassis somehow, is this a fairly standard bolt-on bit ? Or is this something Arch need to get involved with ? The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Just needs a simple bracket making up. Fraid it would be bespoke to the application, if not confident of doing it yourself, I'd speak to Arch. I just made mine out of some 3mm pre-preg carbon sheet, an alluminium plate would suffice though. Real simple, work though, it would take Arch an hour. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Once I've trial-fitted the engine I will have a better idea of what options I have for mounting the actuator, but I may lay it horizontally, pushing forwards, like the one in this 'Bird Striker: here and here. Got the guitar, got the keyboard - now got the engine 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Is that the Klicktronic unit ? The Translogic sensor appears to have joints at either end, rather than being fixed by the the body ? p.s. we have progress in Gixxerhamland. Chris has the chassis now and is fairly positive about it not needing a full re-coat. He was slightly concernened about the "agricultural" nature of the gear linkage though I may be catching up sometime ! The (slow) birth of the Gixxerham : pics here drivel here Edited by - Noger on 7 Mar 2005 15:43:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee_fin Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Yep, the single mounting at the back is on a bearing. Looking at that pic that back mount should actually be mounted horizontally Also worth noting the fact they've drilled for different throw heights/strengths on the engine side (multiple holes), worth doing this so you can find the perfect throw/feel for the unit. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Looking at that pic that back mount should actually be mounted horizontallySee what you mean - the actuator will only be allowed to swivel in the wrong direction Got the guitar, got the keyboard - now got the engine 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now