DJ. Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 I have a track day coming up, and feel my silencer is more noisy than it used to be. I have a Roadsport 125 with the standard silencer which has 8 rivets securing the front cap.Has anyone repacked one of these sliencers, and do you have any helpful tips?Thanks DuncanThis is the one I have: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=4597 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 drill out the rivets and if you can remove the entry cap then yes you can repack it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Just a quick update.My silencer was not easy to repack. After the rivets were removed the end cap was impossible to remove.I have finally disassembled it and found the perforated centre tube, inlet pipe and end cap were all welded together. After some modification, I will be able to reassemble this so it can be repacked easily in the future.However, be warned this is not a quick job and requires a lot of tools and time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Having got it apart do you think it would be easier to cut a hole in the side and make a removeable curved cover panel to fit ?Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 It would probably be easier, but I think a curved panel would be difficult to seal.I managed to get it apart by using a cutting disc on a Dremel to cut through the perforated tube, but the end cap was still unbelievably tight. I had to remove it by drilling a 5/8 hole through the end of the inlet pipe for a high tensile bolt and then suspending the silencer from a tree by a rope attached to the bolt. It still took quite a few drops for gravity to release the end cap! My neighbours probably though I was mad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSeven Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I cut a hole in the side of my silencer big enough to empty and re-pack the silencer through, and then put some curvature on a new stainless sheet by hand and re fixed this with pop rivets around the perimeter sealed with a good quality high temperature sealant.It works perfectly and does not leak at all. I bought a couple of different thicknesses of stainless sheet for a few pounds each from an Ebay shop and ended up using the thinner of the two (sorry I cant recall the thickness but think it was around 0.8mm). I may have a photo still on my phone of the completed job if you need it (hidden by hear shield now), but yes this is very do-able - cheap, relatively easy and effective.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 ... and then suspending the silencer from a tree by a rope attached to the bolt.i hope there are photos. Please. :-)Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 I've got my silencer repacked and given the car a test run (to the local Seven Club meet ), so thought I'd post some pictures of how I did it.Once the cap was removed by cutting through the perforated tube I was left with this:And this:Obviously the unsupported tube will vibrate without some form of support, so I considered the easiest way to create a supporting flange without being able to weld stainless steel.I decided a hexagon would be the easiest shape to make so worked out the length of side required to give 6cm between the flats. This worked out as 3.5cm, so I got some 1.5mm stainless sheet and cut a piece 21cm long by 5.5cm wide. I decided to have tabs 2.5cm long and the collar around the tube 3cm. Using only a big vice, a chunk of steel and a big hammer I made this:I then riveted it into the end cap using 4.8 x 9.5mm sealed stainless pop rivets:the only external clue that I have altered the silencer is this ring of rivets on the front cap:It was then straight forward to insert my Acousta-fil and rivet the cap back onto the exhaust.It was quite a lot of aggravation, but I already had the Acousta-fil and only spent £30 on a long arm Faithful Pop Rivet gun from Amazon and £5.99 for 25 stainless sealed rivets from the same source. A lot cheaper than buying a new Caterham silencer or an alternative re-packable one.I hope this will help another owner some time. Or if you have a better way of doing it please post some pictures!Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Kay Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Neat.I think that would make a great Guide.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean2015 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Duncan, Excellent description and photos. Could I just add that some Roadsport silencers may not require the perforated tube being cut by dremel; on my car (2010 S3) the perforated tube has a swaged connection so does not require cutting.(you should be able to see the swaged connection if you look down the inlet pipe into the silencer). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now