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Hi Ed, I had some laser welding done on a 1937 aluminium sump last year, excellent work, and a brilliant method, but providers are few and far between and often busy. I used a guy in Boscastle down in Cornwall, he does a lot of work for F1 teams, but enjoys the occasional diversion to something different. You could always send it by courier. If its of interest PM me and I'll send his details.

Thanks Jonathan. Sorry to be a PITA but where is the common earth near the lamp unit.

It would be worth chatting to Callum at Turn7 he has sold a few recently

Aaah yes I suppose they don’t 😁 Reading further down the thread I see the battery monitor doohicky aswell. Certainly makes more sense to have it more accessible and near the electrical hub.

Ah, good idea. *heads back to the man cave in search of strimmer cord*

I used a piece of thick strimmer cord as a pull through, I slide it from the inside to the outside taped the C-Tek cable to it, and pulled it through. It wasn't too much of a challenge.

Phil T, that's as far as I've got. I just need to run the cables to the battery. But now the car is all built up its a pain to route them the same way. I might have another go later.

I fitted a 12volt power outlet that's fused directly to the battery. I than can charge the battery without bonnet removal. Makes life very easy. Ctek supplied a 12volt power plug with my charger.

Did same as PhilT above with ours, works a treat, did add USB sockets as well, useful if using phone for satnav

I fitted mine in the front face of the fuse box cover, the c-tek connector came with a template to cut the hole. I then ran the cables from the battery under the gearbox tunnel and through in to the cockpit with the main loom across to the fuse box cover.

Having sold my S3 Caterham I have a Volvo booster seat for sale and ideal for the upcoming enthusiast. The seat is excellent condition and I believe is one of the narrowest seats available and cars will fit in S3 and S5, but I’m unsure about the smaller 170 chassis. Link to the current Volvo parts page: https://www.volvoparts.tmsmotorgroup.co.uk/child-seat-booster-cushion--backrest-wool-fabric-forward-facing-group-23-genuine-volvo-23342-p.asp I’m looking for £100 collected from the Preston area, or plus postage costs if required. If interested please drop me a message via Andy.roberts1@live.com

A plumbers box spanner: https://www.screwfix.com/p/faithfull-tap-backnut-spanner-with-tommy-bar-27mm-32mm/844rh or a Tap Back nut thing: https://www.toolstation.com/tap-backnut-tap-connector-set/p43610

BigCol, so how did you connect the wires to the battery then ? Did you drill a hole in the bulkhead, or route them through the tunnel where the rest of the wires go ? I looked at the tunnel wires and the seems to be loads of them and not much space. Johnathan, as for USB sockets, I dont own anything that needs one. If my passenger needs a recharge they can use a USB adapter in the existing socket. The C-Tek wiring comes with an inline fuse, so its all sorted.

Usual advice: consider including a couple of USB charging sockets. Jonathan

Our third Tuesday monthly pub meet is this coming Tuesday 16th July at the Surrey Oaks from 19:00hrs. The Surrey Oaks, Parkgate Road, Newdigate RH5 5DZ (what3words: public.skirt.taps) Looks like it will be a dry evening so I'll look forward to seeing many of you there. Mark

Me too. C-TEK socket in the cockpit so can connect without the need to remove the bonnet.

Not everyone has one of those - but it reinforces my suggestion 😜

Does anyone have any tips for tightening the sandwich plate bolt? There's a lump inside the plate housing (top left) that's making it hard to get a socket on cleanly...

I just use the 12v cigarette lighter socket on the bulkhead.

Why not hook it up to a ground and +12V under the scuttle? No need to go directly to the battery! Easier, neater…and lighter!!

I did the same as ScottR400D. If you have an FIA switch, the hole in the tunnel will be well filled with thick cables, but there's room for a single cable. The important thing is to ensure you have an inline fuse (say 10A) in the power supply line, close to the battery +ve terminal: JV

I did it years ago but I did feed the cable through the tunnel.

Sale of car club ticket will end on Wednesday 17th this week. DerekH

I'm fitting a Ctek charger point / battery monitor to my fuse box cover, so I can just plug in the Ctek without having to take the bonnet off and connect it to the battery. It will all be hard wired in and I can glance at the red/orang/green indicator lights to see if it needs a charge. But now I need to connect the charger point from the fuse box cover to the battery and wondered if anyone has any suggestions as to where to drill through the bulkhead. I don't think its worth trying to feed the wires along the loom which goes in the tunnel, it seems easier to go through the bulk head. Anyone done something similar ?